smart bender

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The company has a complete owners manual on a pdf file on the net. You can find it on their site.
Or you can google the 855 greenlee bender
 
As far as I remember the 855 is like any other bender, you line your mark up with the front of the shoe and use the deduct for what ever conduit size that you are bending. The deduct for the conduit size should be marked somewhere on the bender. If not, make a mark on a piece of conduit, place it in the bender, line it up with the front of the shoe and bend a 90. Place the conduit on the floor with the stub faceing up and measure from the floor to the mark and that will give you your deduct. Hope this helps. Its been a long time since I've used a smart bender or any bender for that matter. I have a couple of 555's and as far as I remember you use the front of the shoe the same way for 90 stubs. As a matter of fact while I'm thinking of it you use the front of the shoe for all benders that I know of for 90 stubs that includes hydrolic benders also, I think you even use the font of the shoe for hand benders but cants say for sure, I dont use those in my line of work. As I said, hope this helps.
 
Look at the underside of the lid of the box that on top of the by by the handle. There is a chart for stub up bends. I'm away from my shop at the moment so that is about the best I can give you for info for now.
 
back of the 90 855 smart bender

back of the 90 855 smart bender

Heres some more info I should of put in the first post, the bend I am trying to do is with 2" emt, it a 90 with a 45 kick on it, I am thinking the easy way to do it is to do the 45 first then mark were the back of 90 should be. I would like to know were on the shoe I should place the pipe to bend it were the back of the 90 would be?
 
Using the greenlee smartbender 855, bends accurately, but has been in to many hands and has been mistreated so the engaging the rollers on 2 and 1-1-2" is a chore.
 
duluthelectrical said:
if the deduct is 16-3/8 then should I deduct 16-3/8 from the back of the 90 mark I have?
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Read the part on the lid about mark # 1 and mark #2. First mark is the back of the bend, then do the deduct per the chart for 2" (and by memory 16-3/8 sounds right), and make the second mark. The second mark lines up to the front of the shoe. Bend to just past 90 for spring back, when you get to about 88 or 89 use the jog button instead of the bend button. Remember its an $8000 dollar machine, so taking the time to read and re-read the instruction manual or the guide on the lid of the box is kinda crucial so you don't damage the bender.
 
duluthelectrical said:
thanks for the info, i will try that and post my results tomorrow evening
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To make a reverse 90?, i.e. bending it backwards from the direction it is measured...
  1. Mark the distance to the back of the bend.
  2. Subtract and mark the gain for a 90? bend (which is approximately 0.43 ? centerline radius + diameter of pipe, or better yet, bend a measured straight length of scrap, add stub and tail measurements, subtract straight length for the resulting gain.)
  3. ADD your standard "deduct" distance and mark. This is your bend mark. The other marks will be to the roller side of the bender.
 
Maybe I'm missing something, but how much of a kick do you need? Bend your 90 first then kick it to the amount you need.

You could put a 45 deg kick anywhere along the pipe. The amount of kick will vary depending on where you put it in the bender.

If you absolutely have to have a 45 degree kick then you'll have to do some basic math to figure it out.

Take a scrap piece of pipe and put it in the bender, mark pipe at front of shoe. Bend to an exact 45 deg bend and then use a straight edges to find the center of the bend. Measure distance from front of shoe to center of the bend. Ugly's book shows how to to this.
 
kingpb said:
Isn't a smart bender, someone that knows how to bend? :rolleyes:
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Nahhh! Someone that knows how to bend just makes him/her a bender-person. It's the bender-person that has only intentionally bent scrap a smart bender... :D
 
Pipe Bending 1984

Pipe Bending 1984

Last week my partner and I were changing a service and needed to bend a offset in a 1 1/4 rigid pipe.
Not having a shop with a bender near by I reached back in my head where I store things I learned from old timer's back in 1984.
We marked the pipe as you would with a bender and placed on the driveway two pieces of firewood just in the right spot and placed the rigid pipe on it in a way so the weight of my dully wouldn't crush the pipe and would bend it properly then my partner held the pipe the way I showed him and I backed the truck over it. By pulling the truck up and then back three or four times and by turning the rigid pipe the way it needed we bent a fine off set except for a little dog leg in it which I got out.
My partner didn't think it would work and was amazed. Saying ( I have never seen anything like that)
I was shown this for the first time in 1984 by a old timer that worked for me and it worked again.
Just wanted to share this and see if anyone else had ever used there truck to bend rigid pipe.
Semper Fi Buddy
 
Pipe Bending 1984

Yes, but I used the tires of a tractor trailer for my bending.

I've used drilled concrete holes, steel beams and expansion joints, basically anywhere
that I could slip a conduit between structural members that could take the leveraged action.

Your explanation is truly U-Tube material.
 
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