Smurf tube vs PVC

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DIRT27

DIRT27

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I just helped on concrete pour on a second floor deck that they had ran all smurf tube for electrical and Data. I know they spent less time running it than PVC but they did spend a ton of time supporting it. When they poured concrete the smurf tube did not want to stay in place I think there will be a ton of waves and extra bends in the pipe. They stubbed up in PVC, but the stub ups wanted to move because of the smurf tube attached to the 90's. As far as I could tell they did the best they could to support it about ever 5' with chairs attached to the rebar. This is a mix use project commercial residential.

I worked on something similar last year about half the size and we used all PVC. It turned out great we ended up having one 3/4 we could not get wire through. I all the stubs-ups were easy to secure and pipe was easy to pull wire. It did take some time to heat pvc and run it all but overall it went very well.

We have a new project manager that insisted that the smurf tube would be faster and better. I am not so sure I am convinced if we lose 1 or more runs than the labor to run emt below and core drill will eat up any labor savings. I have not used a lot of smurf tube in my career and don't really know how easy it is to pull through.

I would like to hear some opinions on concrete slab work. Whats better and more efficient over all Smurf Tube or PVC?
 
I first heard it called smur tu :confused:

I used it to protect a 2/0 battery cable on a case dozer

think of it as heavy duty split loom

looks good when done correctly
 
cadpoint said:
There is air in the race way, it wants to act like a balloon, stake accordingly, PVC, Smurf or other ...
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I noticed that it wants to float in the concrete. The difference is if you tie pvc down it doesn't flex very much, so it doesn't try to float smurf tube you could tie down every 3 feet and would still try to float in the middle.

Denis it might look good untill you pour 600 plus yrds of concrete on it.
 
My opinion is that it is pure garbage! But when forced... Pull it under the rebar - stretch it fairly taught, and tie wire / zip tie it to death. Under the cage it gets a bit more protection from site damage, and the vibrator. Also, never put a coupling in the slab, and if using connectors to boxes in-slab - tape them to reduce the leaking slurry - they will let it in, and it will pool up blocking the conduit. Also - never use on a site where the tempature is going to be lower than 50 - gets more brittle. I usually put poly line in them prior to pour, and try to have a babysitter there for the the big day it all gets set in stone - for quick repairs. And if you're there, the guy on the pump will try not to fire hose directly it with concrete - just to watch it snap.:rolleyes:
 
When this stuff was fairly new (1991) I used it in place of flex to wire my new store/office. My crew laughed at me but I wanted to see how well the stuff worked.

I actually liked working with it and I didn't ever need to get out a fish tape, all the runs pushed easily.

The stuff has it's place but I agree that it's not a very good product for long runs in poured concrete.

We use it for futures out of residential panels to attic and crawl spaces.
 
Or Try something else

Or Try something else

Have used PVC, Smurf tube and.....PVC coated MC Cable. PVC Coated MC works great for the Power/Lighting wiring. If you need the flexibility smurf works okay. You are going to have a very difficult time telling the PM that PVC is faster than smurf. No gluing, run it and cut it, tie off as needed is always going to come up as a time savings on his/her estimate. No glue, no heating for bends, etc.

Doesn't matter what you do tho' if you aren't on the deck when the pour is going on. I have seen laborers continually stepping on the connectors to the boxes and then tell "sparky" oops broke another one.

By the way, smurf works fine down to freezing, but don't try it in Minnesota in Feb when the temp is continually below zero. Then it does get brittle. Disagree with the below 50 degree comment earlier.
 
I used it once a few years ago on a remodel and seemed to work okay, but I am kind leary about it in concrete. They had to tie chairs to the rebar then tie the smurf tube to the the chair also tied it up in some areas the stuff still wants to move I guess time will tell when it is time to pull wire in a few months.
 
Niether of them are as good as a piece of galvanized, however its much easier and faster to use the ENT vs. the PVC. Plus anything to get you away from using PVC glue is a benefit in my eyes.
 
wirenut25 said:
Niether of them are as good as a piece of galvanized, however its much easier and faster to use the ENT vs. the PVC. Plus anything to get you away from using PVC glue is a benefit in my eyes.
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You wouldn't get that job using rigid there was about 10,000 ft of pipe on the deck it would having taken a year to do it in rigid + it would be really expensive. Whats wrong with PVC glue anyways? I am just thinking it we lose any of the smurf tubes in the slab or can't get wire through is it really cost effective?
 
The glue my shop provides the warnings on the label pretty much say that it is harmful to every system in your body and to avoid skin contact. At the pace you are asked to work on a deck is nearly impossible to not get some on you.
 
wirenut25 said:
The glue my shop provides the warnings on the label pretty much say that it is harmful to every system in your body and to avoid skin contact. At the pace you are asked to work on a deck is nearly impossible to not get some on you.
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You could try wearing a barrier cream to minimize skin contact. You can find some from an industrial plastics or composite supply company.:smile:
 
Ahhh. Nothing like the feel of peeling dried glue off your hairy arms at the end of the day. It would probably hurt if I wasn't so high from huffing the stuff.:grin:
 
I noticed that it wants to float in the concrete.
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Remember that each of those little bends when it floats or is not stretched tight count towards the maximum of 360 that is permitted.
 
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