Specs for New Type of Pushin Terminations

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Fordean

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Electrical Contractor
We purchased these. I see the Rating are for up to 600 volts. But I see no ratings. For Continuous 20 amp or any load typs amp rating.

What are their limitions. Used them in Lieu of Wire Nutting 4 - # 12's

Attached are specs.View attachment in-sure.pdf
 
In my opinion there is no amp rating, they are sized only by wire size in that regard.

Same seems to be true with larger mechanical or compression foot lugs.
 
We purchased these. I see the Rating are for up to 600 volts. But I see no ratings. For Continuous 20 amp or any load typs amp rating.

What are their limitions. Used them in Lieu of Wire Nutting 4 - # 12's

Attached are specs.View attachment 10406

What was/is your application?
I use them a lot and never had a problem.
I think the only stipulation I saw was not to use them in HID lighting or any high voltage lighting. I may be wrong since it's been a while since I read the specs on them.
 
What was/is your application?
I use them a lot and never had a problem.
I think the only stipulation I saw was not to use them in HID lighting or any high voltage lighting. I may be wrong since it's been a while since I read the specs on them.

They say good for 600 vac, Or 1000 DCV. Nothing on how hot (Amps) they get or their limitations. I was always told it must be listed for Continuous or some type of amp.
 
Do they list any max temperature limitations?
Use them with 140 degree wire of a size that fits at full ampacity and I imagine they will get pretty hot themselves.
:)

Tapatalk!
 
They are listed as 105 degrees C.
Being that they are listed for #12 wire maximum, that in effect limits the current you can put through them anyway.
 
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In my opinion there is no amp rating, they are sized only by wire size in that regard.

Same seems to be true with larger mechanical or compression foot lugs.
Kind of my opinion of any connector as a general rule as well. What purpose does a connecting device serve that will take a 1/0 conductor but is only rated for say 20 amps? Usually these type of devices will carry whatever the conductors they are designed for can carry. Insulation can give you voltage limitations though - but most such items are usually good for at least 600 volts.
 
A wire nut, When complete solid splice. When you push these in. They seem loose and spin. Catches only on a very small percent of the Mechanism inside. There will be issues im sure.
As long as contact pressure is maintained they will be fine. There are other things out there that have only a limited amount of contact surface that have seldom failures, like self piercing type connection devices.

Biggest problem with back stabbed receptacles is that contact pressure likely diminishes over time.
 
A wire nut, When complete solid splice. When you push these in. They seem loose and spin. Catches only on a very small percent of the Mechanism inside. There will be issues im sure.

As long as contact pressure is maintained they will be fine. There are other things out there that have only a limited amount of contact surface that have seldom failures, like self piercing type connection devices.

Biggest problem with back stabbed receptacles is that contact pressure likely diminishes over time.

I have dissected both a "push-in" connector and a "back stab" on a switch. The "back stab" has little area of contact and the spring (if you want to call it that) is weak.

The "push-in" has a larger area of contact and the way it is made the spring piece keeps constant pressure on the wire. Also the way it grips the wire it digs in when you try to pull it out. It does spin but anything round will spin if contact is only one one side. Also, most of these connectors are made to re-use. The 6-port is not listed/rated for reuse. But the rest you are supposed to twist the connector while pulling to get the conductor out.


It isn't easy to get out.:happyno: Especially smaller wire. You can try a little test on one. Push a conductor in then twist while pulling until it comes out. Then look at the wire, it will have a groove or rough spot where the spring gripped it.

I would venture to say that if any fail that 97% were not pushed in all the way, 2% probably were used in the wrong application, and 1% maybe some defective ones. I had that happen (not in all the way) on one of the first that I installed. The trick is to make sure you strip the proper amount of insulation and make sure the stripped end is straight and not bent. Then make sure you push it in all the way. It is easy to see because the end is clear and you can see if the conductor goes all the way in. I've found that on #12 wire, it's easier to grasp the conductor near the end with needle nose pliers and push in with those. That lets the wire stay straighter while allowing you to use more force to insert it.

I've been using the Ideal brand and a few of the Wago brand for 3 years with zero problems. I think people that are skeptical have had, or heard of, bad experiences with back stabbed devices. Also, there were some cheapo ones that came with can lights that weren't very good. I have noticed that Halo cans now come with the Wago brand. So they probably got a ton of complaints on the cheap ones and changed to a name brand that was reliable.
 
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