I'm moving a oven outlet over a couple of feet. And I was wondering, is it ok to wirenut the copper to the existing aluminum. Using some no-lox first. I was going to use some big blue wirenuts. I always thought it was ok for aluminum to touch copper as long as you use no-lox.
Splicing copper to aluminum
- Thread starter zappy
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Cow
Senior Member
- Location
- Eastern Oregon
- Occupation
- Electrician
I've done it in a pinch but I know it's not right. Even though I can't see it being much different than buying those listed purple wirenuts which seem to do the exact same thing.
I like to use small burndy insulated taps as long as the j-box is big enough. They work great for al-cu connections.
I like to use small burndy insulated taps as long as the j-box is big enough. They work great for al-cu connections.
Buck Parrish
Senior Member
- Location
- NC & IN
You must use split bolts lited for the purpose. If not done right it will get hot and melt, perhaps worst.
B4T
Senior Member
- Location
- Long Island, N.Y.
I think that goes back years ago when "pig tailing" was an OK method
Just make sure what ever method you use lists cu/al.. purple wire nuts are way too small.
I'm not sure what bug nuts are rated for.
Maybe crimping butt splices might work if the listing works.. Good luck
Pierre C Belarge
Senior Member
- Location
- Westchester County, New York
No-Lox is generally used for coating conductors to help prevent oxidation. This can be most any type of splice/termination.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
The split-bolts I've seen for joining dissimilar metals have a plate that separates the two wires.
A 4-11/16" box has enough room for the tubular set-screw type of splicers. Just tape them well.
I'm suprised nobody mentioned "If you extend the circuit, the whole thing must be four wires."
A 4-11/16" box has enough room for the tubular set-screw type of splicers. Just tape them well.
I'm suprised nobody mentioned "If you extend the circuit, the whole thing must be four wires."
Thanks for the heads up, the circuit has a ground. If it didn't though, couldn't I run a ground wire to a grounding electrode to bring it up to code? Or would I have to run a whole new 4 wire cable from the panel, to where I need the oven outlet?
goldstar
Senior Member
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Polaris insulated bugs are your best bet IMHO. They're CU/AL rated and have some anti-oxident already in them. I wouldn't take the chance with big blue wire nuts.
http://www.aplussupply.com/nsipolaris/polarisconnectors.htm
http://www.aplussupply.com/nsipolaris/polarisconnectors.htm
I talk to a guy at Ideal today
I talk to a guy at Ideal today
He said that the purple wirenuts have no-lox inside, and it's the same stuff that comes in the bottle, it's just refined more so that it can be injected into the wirenut without any pockets of air in the wirenut. Any pocket of air could cause oxidation. He said the shell is rated the same temp. as regular wirenuts. So just fill a regular wirenut to the top with no-lox and your good to go. JK:grin:
I talk to a guy at Ideal today
He said that the purple wirenuts have no-lox inside, and it's the same stuff that comes in the bottle, it's just refined more so that it can be injected into the wirenut without any pockets of air in the wirenut. Any pocket of air could cause oxidation. He said the shell is rated the same temp. as regular wirenuts. So just fill a regular wirenut to the top with no-lox and your good to go. JK:grin:
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