Splicing Means

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Kinda' a newbie question, but here goes...

I have service-entrance conductors (3-phase) coming from the CT can into an existing gutter. From the gutter, existing split-bolt splices feed three separate disconnects hanging from the bottom of the gutter. My job is to upgrade one of the D/Cs from 100A to 200A. This requires opening the existing split-bolt connections in the gutter, after the POCO cuts the service drop, obviously. :)

What kind of splicing means is recommended for the gutter? And, btw, we are planning to increase the size of the gutter, but would rather not if we don't need to.

(1) Split-bolt? I've used split-bolts and tape for simple 2-wire splices before, but I'm not sure about this multi-tap in a gutter application. Can I run my line-side conductor along the length of the gutter and then use three split-bolts to splice onto my feed? Like this:

-X--------------X---------------X-------------> to CT can
| | |
| | |
D/C#1 D/C#2 D/C#3

(The ascii art isn't working, but each "X" is a split-bolt, and one D/C hangs below each "X".)

(2) Ilsco Clear Tap? Or Equivalent--what? Brand-names, please.

(3) (Don't flame me too bad!) Is it acceptable to use those little bus barsinside a J-box or gutter? My first though was to use 5 bus bars (those little ones mounted on insulating stand-offs)--one for each phase, neutral and EGC. Didn't know if having them exposed inside a gutter was acceptable. It's going on the side of a church, and I just feel a lot better having everything buttoned-up and insulated!

Thanks. Hope this makes sense.

Mark
 
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growler

Senior Member
Location
Atlanta,GA
Polaris Connectors. These are the insulated connectors that you are probably looking for. Much easier to deal with than split bolts.
 

busman

Senior Member
Location
Northern Virginia
Occupation
Master Electrician / Electrical Engineer
I'd use H-taps. I prefer the Ilsco's because you need fewer sizes, but Burndy would work too.

Mark
 

augie47

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee
Occupation
State Electrical Inspector (Retired)
It may not be an issue in your area because as I discuss it I find many AHJs have given it no thought, but you may want to review this thread:

http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=123796&highlight=SCCR

My research so far has not produced a insulated tap that has a SCCR rating or a distribution block that is rated for line side of service. This is not to say they do not exist, but I'm still looking.
It's beginning to look like split bolts or Htaps may be the only "approved" method.
 

growler

Senior Member
Location
Atlanta,GA
It may not be an issue in your area because as I discuss it I find many AHJs have given it no thought, but you may want to review this thread:

http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=123796&highlight=SCCR

My research so far has not produced a insulated tap that has a SCCR rating or a distribution block that is rated for line side of service. This is not to say they do not exist, but I'm still looking.
It's beginning to look like split bolts or Htaps may be the only "approved" method.

It's not just the AHJs that hadn't given it any thought. I went back and read that other thread and was surprised how far out of touch I am.
 

Cow

Senior Member
Location
Eastern Oregon
Occupation
Electrician
Is it possible to come straight off the CT can lugs?

For gutter splicing we usually use Polaris insulated taps. Stagger the taps and get the feed-thru style to make for a cleaner install. Distribution blocks are our second choice.
 

e57

Senior Member
What kind of splicing means is recommended for the gutter?

And, btw, we are planning to increase the size of the gutter, but would rather not if we don't need to.

As for the means in the first sentance.... Ilsco or Polaris or Burndy - it doesn't matter - what does is the availability to you - you might want to call around and check line card for your supply house - e.g. Polaris is off the shelf in most houses here. If I "asked" for Burndy and would take no equal (since they are IMO) I would be waiting a long time and pay more... ;)

Now the second sentance - IMO the most important one.... While you may fear old scool split bolts and tape... conductor deflection and space may be below code these days for your install - for that matter existing conductor length.... Switching over to an 'Insulated terminal bus' may prove to complicate things un-necessarily, and cost way - way more than re-split bolting them.... If you feel - the methods are too foriegn to you - consider IDC taps.... (Common supply) Or these. (less commonly supplied....) And leave the rest if you can... And DO check your wire space and deflection before you decide....
 
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