Spot the Turkey: Violation Edition

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George Stolz

George Stolz

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Windsor, CO NEC: 2017
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Hospital Master Electrician
Here is a picture of a temp setup in the mountains. The service disconnect is down at the road. There is a feeder about 130' long between the service disconnect and the riser shown below, where the garage wall will be built.

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Thoughts? :)
 
does that stand pass 110.26 ?

As far as neatness i would not care on a temp. Don't forget the UFER when they get footer ready.

Does this stand qualify as a structure and need ground rods ?

I assume your using same feeders for the garage after it is up.

For support you could just throw dirt over it, but really see no big issue here.
 
I guess I should clarify my point in posting the pictures - How would you do it?

My temp is crossing the road, and the driveway. This was the most reasonable way to get the job done, as far as I could think of.

(I'm not real proud to admit it, but in the past I have done similar, sans the sealtite and junction box - just had the URD popping out the top of the riser, taped back over to the riser and spliced to a temp - which this is an improved version of. :D )

Jim Walker said:
does that stand pass 110.26 ?
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Probably not - but these are used in my area every day without much of a thought to it. It hadn't occurred to me until you brought it up.

As far as neatness i would not care on a temp.
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You cared three posts prior. :D

Does this stand qualify as a structure and need ground rods ?
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Yes, and I installed a ground rod at the temp. I also did not pull an EGC, as Colorado has decided that if a service disconnect cannot serve more than one feeder, then that feeder can omit the EGC (contrary to the change in the 2008.)

So, how would you (general "you", not just Jim) tackle the problem?
 
Well if I had to do it and meet all codes I guess I would support the riser with strut hit a box come back down and across with more PVC to the meter and panel. Of course the form guys would not be impressed.
 
Looks pretty much like SOP here. I might have tried to get my PVC "stub-up" to follow the slope on the bank a bit more...or put up a 2 x skatlin stake for support...but it is "temporary"
 
No comments other than to say, hey it?s a temporary service.

What I did notice was the terrain and trees and thought it all looked just a little too familiar. Then I noticed that George is just up the road from me. :)
 
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Thoughts? :)
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With that terrain it's no wonder you dont know what a subsoiler is:D

Some times you gotta do what you gotta do. It's like a old time inspector told me once about some temp wireing I did to keep every one working. "You are the electrician and as long as it's safe and temporary you can do what you need to do"

Now I know who got my Hitachi drill;)
 
ceb58 said:
With that terrain it's no wonder you dont know what a subsoiler is:D
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That's no joke - the t-post I drove to support the riser went just to the start of the spades, and stopped dead in it's tracks. I wailed on it for a short bit, and then decided my story would be, "When they backfill, it will be a good depth." :D

milehiwire said:
What I did notice was the terrain and trees and thought it all looked just a little too familiar. Then I noticed that George is just up the road from me.
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Believe it or not, this site is just about half an hour's drive (on a clear day) from the edge of Fort Collins.

Augie47 said:
I might have tried to get my PVC "stub-up" to follow the slope on the bank a bit more...
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I wanted the riser to be in exactly the right spot for the permanent installation.

Augie47 said:
...or put up a 2 x skatlin stake for support...
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Put up a whatsit?

iwire said:
Well if I had to do it and meet all codes I guess I would support the riser with strut hit a box come back down and across with more PVC to the meter and panel.
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Yeah, my purpose in switching straight over to flex was to allow the temp to be tugged and brought down off the hill once the driveway/house reached a later state. Right now, to get up and down to the temp, I set a five-foot stepladder against the side of the hill to get up and down. I imagine the trades are going to be cussing me a bit for that, but I didn't want to expose too much of this to traffic. The site is pretty darned tight, not really enough space to turn a vehicle around, before the house is even set.

iwire said:
Of course the forum guys would not be impressed.
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Edit: Forgot to write this: Yeah, I figured nobody would be impressed with this either, but I figured I'd learn something by sticking my neck out on this one. :)
 
George Stolz said:
Edit: Forgot to write this: Yeah, I figured nobody would be impressed with this either, but I figured I'd learn something by sticking my neck out on this one. :)
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You do know I was talking about the cement form guys trying to work with a strut rack and box in the way right? :)
 
I don't think I would put a service of any kind in harms way - and any changes to the form work or placement means you have the service in the wrong place. And for me at least any corrections would need to meet POCO standards - which are more expensive...

I would put the temp service away from the building out of the way of all the destruction. And the conduit actually intended to go to the house in line with it so they can be joined easily...

Or for that matter make the service be out away from the building permanently. I only say this because all the concrete and rough framers are gorillas... I can't imagine the flex surviving the abuse.

Or like Iwire - I would make the temp service the permanent one, and have it rock solid and supported, and let them build the house around it....
 
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So my guess on the location is South and West of Fort Collins? The terrain and botany changes once North and Ponderosa Pines are not too prolific. The furthest Northern stand of Scrub Oak is in Owl Canyon. They were hand planted????.
 
can you put the underground service conduit into a christie box outside the building, empty conduit stub up from the christie box to the building, and another underground conduit to the temp which would later be abandoned?
 
wireguru said:
can you put the underground service conduit into a christie box outside the building, empty conduit stub up from the christie box to the building, and another underground conduit to the temp which would later be abandoned?
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That was kind of my thinking too... Maybe run the conduit as usuall - partially bury then cut a section out for a christy, then when ready at the building pull the conductors to the building from there, or repair the conduit and re-pull to get rid of the christy.
 
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