Stainless Steel Conduit?

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Dibloafer911

Dibloafer911

You shall not pass
Location
Palm Coast, FL
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Controls, estimating, engineering
I just came across a note on a set of drawings saying that all conduit installed inside of these particular walk-in boxes are to be SS. Anyone ever worked with SS conduit before? I have been in the refer electrical/control/EMS installation business for a long time. Never had to work with any SS conduit. this is a first. I've seen SS gutters and enclosures and such, but conduit? nope. I'ts not even listed in Chapter 3 of the NEC. I see it all over the internet for purchase, however.
Anyone have experience with this? Does it behave like RMC or IMC?
Thanks
 
I have done large projects with SS, you need to take labor and tool wear into account not to mention astronomical material cost, a single gang SS FS box will be around $100.00.

Roger
 
Yeah, knowing how difficult stainless can be to drill through I knew it would be a nightmare to thread, and brutal on dies. Luckily i found in the specs where it says I can use EMT SS :)
Still though, sooo pricey!!:oops:
 
We bought some 3/4" emt a few years back. Of course, it is expensive and bending it is difficult... Fortunately we didn't have to do bending. Cutting it isn't easy either. A lot more labor intensive.
 
From what I see I can buy a bunch of factory 90's to make it work for the evap coils they are terminating at. So hopefully no field bending
 
I was going to use it for a Protected Distribution System that had a portion outside. These aren't allowed to be painted, must be ferrous conduit, and our stormwater people said no more galvanized on the roof. One I saw the cost of the stainless, and none of the electricians wanting to install a 20' 4" SS vertical riser due to weight, I used a loophole that allowed "factory painted conduit". We painted it as soon as it hit the loading dock. Hopefully no one paints it after the fact when doing roof maintenance. The old one got decertified because it got painted.
 
masterinbama said:
Surface feet per minute. Slow everything down and all is well

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Yes. Helps even with mild steel but definitely must do so with stainless.

For drilling a good sharp bit, right speed, right pressure, and a proper cutting fluid and you go right through. Take away any one of those aspects away and it can seem like you will never get through, and sometimes may not.
 
kwired said:
For drilling a good sharp bit, right speed, right pressure, and a proper cutting fluid and you go right through. Take away any one of those aspects away and it can seem like you will never get through, and sometimes may not.
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Those are important, but IME, MOST IMPORTANT is continuous feed. Never, absolutely never, stop drilling and let the bit spin against the work. Work hardening will get you. If you want to stop to clear chips, QUICKLY remove pressure and back out. Drilling with a drill press is pretty easy. Drilling with a hand drill is difficult.

When you start drilling, KEEP DRILLING. Don't touch the work and pause a second.
 
GeorgeB said:
Those are important, but IME, MOST IMPORTANT is continuous feed. Never, absolutely never, stop drilling and let the bit spin against the work. Work hardening will get you. If you want to stop to clear chips, QUICKLY remove pressure and back out. Drilling with a drill press is pretty easy. Drilling with a hand drill is difficult.

When you start drilling, KEEP DRILLING. Don't touch the work and pause a second.
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I sort of agree with you, but at same time if you find that right "sweet spot" speed you will be slow enough that hardening the work won't be too much issue should you back off on pressure for a little bit. Also found if you don't start cutting material almost immediately your bit is too dull, you aren't applying enough pressure or have the wrong speed or some combination of those things and you better make necessary changes before you do harden the work too much.
 
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