Stainless Steel Panelboard
- Thread starter adavey
- Start date
- Status
bphgravity
Senior Member
- Location
- Florida
I think you need carbide or cobalt tipped hole saws for SS. Also use slower RPM's and cutting fluid to keep the heat down.
I'm pretty sure the also have hole-punch kits for use with SS. That may be a better option.
I'm pretty sure the also have hole-punch kits for use with SS. That may be a better option.
BryanMD
Senior Member
Center punch your mark then a quality brand 135 degree split point HSS bit for the first 1/4", from there a GOOD unibit will get the job done. If you're careful the bit will last a while. ALWAYS go s l o w with stainless; avoid heat.
3/4 & 1" shouldn't need the punch at all, but if neatness counts, expand the 1/4" hole big enough for the hydraulic ram's stud to fit; use "slug buster" dies.
3/4 & 1" shouldn't need the punch at all, but if neatness counts, expand the 1/4" hole big enough for the hydraulic ram's stud to fit; use "slug buster" dies.
LHarrington
Senior Member
- Location
- Saginaw Bay area Michigan
Good afternoon,
I am employed at a panel manufacture and Stainless Steel is a popular item here we use a Green lee hydraulic punch set on our own panel when required. The trick I found works best is to drill the pilot hole a size or two (pending on material thickness) larger to allow the Stainless material to displace inward during the punch and dies penetration point. Along with a little cutting oil to assist. If you only drill and clearance hole then the material will bind against the threaded post and struggle to shear the hole in . Rotobroach also makes a nice set of hole saws that work well in a cordless drill on the number 1 setting, however be very careful because if it bites in and walks away stitches will be required.
Good luck
LHarrington
I am employed at a panel manufacture and Stainless Steel is a popular item here we use a Green lee hydraulic punch set on our own panel when required. The trick I found works best is to drill the pilot hole a size or two (pending on material thickness) larger to allow the Stainless material to displace inward during the punch and dies penetration point. Along with a little cutting oil to assist. If you only drill and clearance hole then the material will bind against the threaded post and struggle to shear the hole in . Rotobroach also makes a nice set of hole saws that work well in a cordless drill on the number 1 setting, however be very careful because if it bites in and walks away stitches will be required.
Good luck
LHarrington
- Location
- Illinois
- Occupation
- retired electrician
The "extra thick" tap magic works well on stainless. We have had very good luck using Blair hole cutters. As previously stated you must keep the speed down. Many small drill motors will not provide enough torque at the low speeds that are required. For a 3/4" conduit size hole they recommend 170 RPM. 1" is the biggest we will use a hole saw on...bigger we use the KO set.
pbeasley
Senior Member
- Location
- Orange County, CA (for now)
we've had reasonable success with step bits in stainless, but the punch does come out cleaner. Have not had good luck with toothed hole saws.
Podagrower
Member
- Location
- Central Fl
Insane redneck trick of the day.
Sugar water.
Yes, it sounds insane. I laughed the first time I heard it also. But after using some pepsi, coke, or just water mixed with sugar to dip the hole saws into like you would with cutting oil, there is no easier way. Oh, and lo rpms.
Sugar water.
Yes, it sounds insane. I laughed the first time I heard it also. But after using some pepsi, coke, or just water mixed with sugar to dip the hole saws into like you would with cutting oil, there is no easier way. Oh, and lo rpms.
mdshunk
Senior Member
- Location
- Right here.
I never really tired hole saws in stainless. I always just punched them.
big john
Senior Member
- Location
- Portland, ME
We do a lot of stainless for pharmaceutical production areas. I've gotten very good results using new hole saws and a lot of cutting oil. Every couple of seconds I stop and fill the cut groove, and cut on low speed at high pressure. The holes go pretty darn quick and the bits last a good while.
The company is sorta afraid to use KO punches on that stuff so I can't tell you if that works. I do know that a brand new hole saw, used without cutting oil, will burn out after a single hole in 1/8" stainless.
-John
The company is sorta afraid to use KO punches on that stuff so I can't tell you if that works. I do know that a brand new hole saw, used without cutting oil, will burn out after a single hole in 1/8" stainless.
-John
JacksonburgFarmer
Senior Member
- Location
- Butler County Ohio
Use a regular hole saw, new ones, or real good one is best. Water, or sugar water (Pepsi, coke, ect.) makes good lube, and cools bit down, low speed HIGH HIGH preasure. Did i mention High preasure?:grin:
macmikeman
Senior Member
- Location
- Planet macmikeman
Nobody mentioned using Milk for a cutting oil substitute yet, so I will. Also works well.
quogueelectric
Senior Member
- Location
- new york
Three ways I use
1- greenlee carbide cutters cuts stainless like butter 260$ a kit
2- reg drill bit and keep going from dead stop to 1 or 2 revolutions. Keep fluttering the trigger on and off from dead stop and a reg drill bit will cut it. No longer than 1 sec on trigger and start from dead stop each time.
3-ko punch
1- greenlee carbide cutters cuts stainless like butter 260$ a kit
2- reg drill bit and keep going from dead stop to 1 or 2 revolutions. Keep fluttering the trigger on and off from dead stop and a reg drill bit will cut it. No longer than 1 sec on trigger and start from dead stop each time.
3-ko punch
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