Steel Beam

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Alwayslearningelec

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NJ
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Estimator
Any of you guys ever drill through a I beam for your conduit? What would you use to drill through? Not exactly sure of thickness but it's a standard beam. Thanks.
 
Obvious questions what size hole and is the structural engineer signing off on this? I've seen them drilled with a magnetic base drill and then an additional steel plate is welded around the hole.
 
infinity said:
Obvious questions what size hole and is the structural engineer signing off on this? I've seen them drilled with a magnetic base drill and then an additional steel plate is welded around the hole.
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1" Hole. Take long to drill through with that drill?
 
infinity said:
Obvious questions what size hole and is the structural engineer signing off on this?
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I agree and would never drill a structural beam or column be it steel or wood without architect or engineers approval.

Roger
 
How thick? For one hole a standard hole saw would work at slow speeds with cutting oil. An annular cutter is better but costly for just one hole.
parts-to-annular-cutter.jpg


FAQ on Hougen Annular Cutters

FAQ for Hougen annular cutters
www.hougen.com
 
I remember many years ago drilling through the edge of some. It was not a support beam. We used hole saws. It really burned them up. But it worked. If a torch is available that would be a good bet.
 
horsegoer said:
Thanks. When you say "either" your referring to the bit? What two types of bits? The annular and.....?
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Yes, either the annular style bit or a standard hole saw will work in the drill in the photo. But again for one hole the annular drill is overkill unless we're talking of steel that's inches thick.
 
It's really important that this gets run by the engineer (preferably) or the architect (if no choice) and signed off in writing! I've never met a steel beam that wasn't structural. If the project doesn't have an engineer or architect, I wouldn't drill it without explicit direction from the GC or owner, again in writing, and you providing a disclaimer, which can be part of the same document, that you are not an engineer/engineering firm and that your penetrating the I-beam is strictly at the Owner's risk. CYA, CYA, CYA.
 
The general rule of thumb I remember is the middle third in each direction is generally safe within proportional limits.
 
LarryFine said:
The general rule of thumb I remember is the middle third in each direction is generally safe within proportional limits.
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Which is probably true but without having the right person sign off on it could be an expensive mistake. We had an electrician drill through the main structural beam on a new radiology building and was looking at over $10,000 to have it replaced. We were looking at the whole roof being jack up and supported while it was maneuvered out and a new maneuvered in. It was bogus and the manufacturer of the beam came up with a repair for a less than $1000.00 but it could have been avoided with a little communication.

Roger
 
roger said:
Which is probably true but without having the right person sign off on it could be an expensive mistake. We had an electrician drill through the main structural beam on a new radiology building and was looking at over $10,000 to have it replaced. We were looking at the whole roof being jack up and supported while it was maneuvered out and a new maneuvered in. It was bogus and the manufacturer of the beam came up with a repair for a less than $1000.00 but it could have been avoided with a little communication.

Roger
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I've seen many steel beams with holes in them or sometimes even large web openings for ducts to pass through. There are ways to reinforce the penetration so that beam remains with its original strength and replacement is not needed. Just find out before you make the penetration. :giggle:
 
LarryFine said:
The general rule of thumb I remember is the middle third in each direction is generally safe within proportional limits.
Click to expand...
Yes That is generally the best place for a hole. Pretty much all engineered wood beams in the trusjoist catalog can be drilled there. PSL's are middle third, but LVL's have a larger allowable hole zone. But getting approval for steel could be tricky
 
infinity said:
Yes, either the annular style bit or a standard hole saw will work in the drill in the photo. But again for one hole the annular drill is overkill unless we're talking of steel that's inches thick.
Click to expand...
And if it is "inches thick" it is for a reason and possibly even more critical to get structural engineer's blessing to do so.
 
If you have a lot of holes the mag drill and annular bits are the cats ass. Some of the supply houses will rent you the drill and you buy the bits. Cuts like butter. I had never used one before. We had a structural support frame with about 30 7/8 hole to drill. Layed them all out and center punched them. 45 min (if that) and we were done.
 
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