Stray voltage on pool pavers

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I have to question if a bonding ring is always going to be sufficient if the finished surface is "pavers".

I'd rather see poured concrete within the first 3 to 5 feet of the edge of the pool myself, with bonded reinforcing within it. Then maybe pavers is ok beyond that if that is what is desired.
Well since it's pavers it doesn't matter what would work better, but a bonding ring is still required, even if it was grass. Could the ground water be carrying current? like was mentioned before, the problem may not be at your house.
 
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I agree that the bonded concrete is better than the pavers.

If there is some stray current, the bonding grid is (like you have been saying) supposed to allow the safe usage of the pool and pool area. But, if there is stray current, then at the edge of the bonding grid would you once again be subject to exposure to step voltage?
I think your biggest risk is right near the edge of the pool. Your skin is also more conductive if you are in the pool then if you are standing on the deck outside the pool. If you know you have the parts you can reach while in the pool well bonded - you have removed the worst part of the risk.

At least three feet of bonded concrete is likely good, five feet is even better. Voltage gradient zones will get larger as you move away from the pool, and it becomes less possible to place yourself across significant enough voltage to harm you.
 
-I am meeting the engineer from the utility company on thursday at the house and will have her address those issues.
Thank you again. I felt like I hit a wall but now have some vigor back.

I'm such a loser, I keep checking back here hoping to see the meeting results. LOL.

I guess I'll close the laptop and go back to reading. Been getting heavy into David Baldacci lately.
 
perhaps the loop under the pavers has been compromised in the bonding method? perhaps measure some ohms between paver wire and pool pump, should be darn close to zero.
 
I also am very interested in the outcome of this problem

I do not see anywhere that the voltage is AC, but kind of assume it is.

Thanks all who posted, I found useful information here, most of which I hope I never have to use.
 
Also curious, is this a concrete pool, vinyl with steel walls or fiberglass? I did not see type mentioned in original post.
I know you mentioned cups for a ladder or rail, is there a diving board? Or slide?

What type of lighting? Standard wet niche?
 
http://www.c-m-p.com/the-essential-guide-to-pool-water-bonding-basics/

I understand the pool is a fibreglass shell (this is an excellent insulator between the pool water and the surrounding earth (ground)).You may want to investigate the above link for products that ground the pool water in this type of situation. We encountered a similar problem to yours at another site. Good Luck.
:)

not a bad suggestion, i would also install 1-2 ground rods and also bond to that.

was it mentioned, std or salt water pool ??

however, many posts on MH forums come in as "i have this issue, what can i do?", but are then no updates ever provided by the OP. only 1 reply from OP some time ago.
 
I am going to say insufficient permimeter bonding is your problem - even if whatever was done passed code.

Pavers within the first few feet of the edge of the pool sounds like a bad design to me for the purpose of perimeter bonding.
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I agree that the bonding is not sufficient to raise all of the surfaces to the same voltage.

There were some negative comments when the code was changed to permit the single bonding conductor run at 18" from the pool under the pavers or deck surface to provide the required equipotential bonding. They cited testing the showed that you could have the same problem that is occurring here because the bonding was not sufficient to raise the voltage of the deck surface to that of the water and other directly bonded items in the area.

The code was changed but compliance with the code may not always be enough to eliminate these types of problems.
 
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