Stripping New Type of MC Cable

busman

busman

Senior Member
Location
Northern Virginia
Occupation
Master Electrician / Electrical Engineer
Have any of you encountered this new MC cable with the "smooth" outer sheathing? It pulls great, but it does seem like a Roto-Split is not designed to cut this armor without nicking the conductors. Should there be a new tool for this? I think it is called MC Glide. Basically, without the corrugation, the conductors are "right up against the armor."

Thanks,

Mark

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infinity said:
You think we might have to go back to using a hacksaw?
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That is what I was thinking. Seems like another product not thought all the way thru.

In the interest of transparency, I should provide the whole story. When I wired my new garage last year, it was mostly standard MC cable, but there was one roll of this new stuff. When it was all done and I went to energize, I checked all the circuits for shorts and found one that showed a short. Walls were already closed, so I let it lie. This was a 240V circuit for an mini-split that is not installed yet.

Anyway, I finally got back to it last week and found that I had indeed nicked the insulation on one end causing a short (fortunately the panel end) in a run of this type of cable. It was a 90 degree connector and the bend put the hot in contact with the fitting. Anyway, live and learn, but I wanted to post here, lest someone else do the same thing. I've been in this trade for 34 years and it seems there is always something new.

Thanks,

Mark
 
I remember running a metal clad cable on a job back when I was still pretty green at this trade that was similar. Don't know if it was AC or MC but was continuous instead of spiral armor but did have similar corrugations. No colors just unfinished aluminum sheath. I believe we scored it with a hacksaw then bent it a little and it would break the rest of the way through.

I do recall it was in a nursing home where we were running it, maybe was something that qualified for health care facilities?
 
Sounds like the MCsquare that was on the market at one time. As kwire noted, you could score it with a saw (or even a knife) bend it and break it then slide the broken part off.
 
busman said:
That works great with Aluminum, not so much with steel.

Mark
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I’ve always wondered that also unless if it’s job specification, why you steal over aluminum. I mean it’s a thing subject to damage. I’d either probably use a different wiring method or if it has to be whipped related I’d use like liquid type flexible metal conduit, cause that’s at least add some more rigidity to it.
 
electrofelon said:
Thats what i have always done. I have never used a rotosplit in my 25 year so far career. I will say that using the correct cutting tool like Klein 1104's does a nicer job than dykes.
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I’ve noticed it also depends on the Dykes. I use my nice knipex long handled angle head does a much better job than my Klein
 
I've used the new stuff with a rotosplit. You have to set the cut depth shallower. Ease in on it, and don't push hard on the lever like you would with normal MC. You will feel the blade pop through the sheath and then stop. I nicked the wire insulation the first few times I used it, but once you are more careful about setting cut depth and ease up on pressure it goes fine.
 
AC\DC said:
I’ve always wondered that also unless if it’s job specification, why you steal over aluminum. I mean it’s a thing subject to damage. I’d either probably use a different wiring method or if it has to be whipped related I’d use like liquid type flexible metal conduit, cause that’s at least add some more rigidity to it.
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I only used it because it was MY garage. With that said, I've gotten tired of the Slinky Effect and use a lot of steel where it won't be too heavy.

Mark
 
going_commando said:
I've used the new stuff with a rotosplit. You have to set the cut depth shallower. Ease in on it, and don't push hard on the lever like you would with normal MC. You will feel the blade pop through the sheath and then stop. I nicked the wire insulation the first few times I used it, but once you are more careful about setting cut depth and ease up on pressure it goes fine.
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Glad I'm not the only one. Also glad it was my place and not a customer. I've always tried to be careful with the pressure and stop when I hear the cutting stop. I guess I have one more new skill to master. Thanks.

Mark
 
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