Submersible Pump Connections

[bkludecke]

How would you do this? I've got to make the connections to a submersible well pump. The pump comes with tails of #14 wire and need to be connected to the well pump cable which is #6. The crimp type barrel slices the were furnished are for #6 conductors only and I have not been able to locate a splice that has a range of #14 - #6. Experience has taught me that I can probably double back the #14 a couple of times and make the crimp satisfactorily. But........... My question is about the whole listing thing and is it a violation of Art. 110.

BTW the reason for the #6 is that the well pump will be 575ft down in the casing so voltage drop was a concern with that 3 HP pump.

Suggestions?

 

[mivey]

How about twist and solder?

 

[quogueelectric]

How would you do this? I've got to make the connections to a submersible well pump. The pump comes with tails of #14 wire and need to be connected to the well pump cable which is #6. The crimp type barrel slices the were furnished are for #6 conductors only and I have not been able to locate a splice that has a range of #14 - #6. Experience has taught me that I can probably double back the #14 a couple of times and make the crimp satisfactorily. But........... My question is about the whole listing thing and is it a violation of Art. 110.

BTW the reason for the #6 is that the well pump will be 575ft down in the casing so voltage drop was a concern with that 3 HP pump.

Suggestions?

Try to contact polaris they seem to have a nice selection. Also phoenix contacts have some high end crimps that would build that 14 out to about a 10 at least with an aircraft quality crimp (grey)

 

[frenchelectrican]

Try to contact polaris they seem to have a nice selection. Also phoenix contacts have some high end crimps that would build that 14 out to about a 10 at least with an aircraft quality crimp (grey)

you could but keep in your mind the OP say the well is 175 metre [ 575 feet ] down and the water pressure can be pretty hard on the connections when you sumgered that deep and the connectors have to be really sealed good otherwise water will find a way to get in and fizzed out the connections.

and i don't think the standard UG waterproof connecters will work in the well cavity at all due the room as well.


Merci,Marc

 

[mivey]

you could but keep in your mind the OP say the well is 175 metre [ 575 feet ] down and the water pressure can be pretty hard on the connections when you sumgered that deep and the connectors have to be really sealed good otherwise water will find a way to get in and fizzed out the connections.

and i don't think the standard UG waterproof connecters will work in the well cavity at all due the room as well.


Merci,Marc

I don't think the connections will be under a 575 foot column of water. The column height determines the pressure unless there is a pressure vessel.

 

[aline]

Here's a link to the polaris site.
I don't know if you can get them for #14 wire though.
http://www.nsipolaris.com/electrical/insulatedconnectors/polarisblue.aspx

 

[hillbilly]

575 feet deep...man that's a "deep well".

The water pressure that the connectors will be exposed to has nothing to do with the depth of the well...unless the well is completely full of water.:roll:

This pressure will be dictated by the height of the water column above the pump itself.
Say there's 20 feet of water above the pump after it's submerged....there would be:
20 feet of water column/2.31 psi per ft. (water column) = 8.65 psi pressure on the external pump housing.

The depth of the well dictates the required discharge pressure of the pump head.
The pump would have to produce 240.25 psi pressure to lift the water to the top of the well.....
575-20/2.31 = 240.25
This would be the pressure on the water pipe at the pump discharge (at bottom of well) if you were simply dumping the water on the ground.

After you add the required discharge pressure at the well head...to push the water where you need it at the required pressure... you could be looking at over 300 lbs pump pressure.

Anyway, back to your original question.
For this installation, I would probably twist and (silver) solder the splices and cover them with (waterproof) shrink tubing.

I wouldn't want to be the one who has to pull that pump because of a loose electrical connection or broken cable.

I would also install a torque arrestor on the pump, and secure the pump cable to the piping at regular intervals....1150 feet of #6cu is pretty heavy.

What kind of piping will be in the well?
What type of pull rope or cable will be installed?

steve

 

[bkludecke]

The pump will be hanging on 1 1/4" steel pipe with custom cut threads, special hardened steel couplings, and check valves every 100 feet.

All this just to water some trees and landscaping in the So Cal mountains. This is a single family residence and if you think the well is a bit excessive you ought to see the house. We have well in excess of $260k in the wiring and there is really nothing very elaborate. It is a nice place though.

 

[frenchelectrican]

Thanks Hillbilly for clearing up little more details and the deepest well i ran into is 300 metre deep that have 300 MM [ 12 inch ] well casting with 100 MM [ 4 inch ] extra hevey walled pipe and that was a sonofgunner to lift that one out it almost flipped one well drilling truck over.

Merci,Marc

 

[stickboy1375]

How would you do this? I've got to make the connections to a submersible well pump. The pump comes with tails of #14 wire and need to be connected to the well pump cable which is #6. The crimp type barrel slices the were furnished are for #6 conductors only and I have not been able to locate a splice that has a range of #14 - #6. Experience has taught me that I can probably double back the #14 a couple of times and make the crimp satisfactorily. But........... My question is about the whole listing thing and is it a violation of Art. 110.



Suggestions?

Did you do a voltage drop to see what size wire you actually need?

I own a franklin well pump book and a 3 HP pump wired at #6 AWG 60/75 degree copper wire is good for 750', how much distance is from the well to the panel?

 

[stickboy1375]

Did you do a voltage drop to see what size wire you actually need?

I own a franklin well pump book and a 3 HP pump wired at #6 AWG 60/75 degree copper wire is good for 750', how much distance is from the well to the panel?

I guess what i'm getting at is you could go two different size wires and still compensate for voltage drop.

 

[bkludecke]

The supplier of the pump specified the cable as a package deal. I was not in that loop. The same supplier furnished the butt splices and said to just double up the smaller wire to fit the barrel of the splice. I've done that before with no problems. It just seems to me that someone must make reducing barrel splices for crimp type applications. But I sure haven't found any.

We did the splicing today and I sure it will be just fine.

 

[stickboy1375]

The supplier of the pump specified the cable as a package deal. I was not in that loop. The same supplier furnished the butt splices and said to just double up the smaller wire to fit the barrel of the splice. I've done that before with no problems. It just seems to me that someone must make reducing barrel splices for crimp type applications. But I sure haven't found any.

We did the splicing today and I sure it will be just fine.

I'm sure it will be fine also, one thing, why didnt the plumber do this?

 

[hillbilly]

The supplier of the pump specified the cable as a package deal. I was not in that loop. The same supplier furnished the butt splices and said to just double up the smaller wire to fit the barrel of the splice. I've done that before with no problems. It just seems to me that someone must make reducing barrel splices for crimp type applications. But I sure haven't found any.

We did the splicing today and I sure it will be just fine.

I hope that it is.

I can't imagine having to pull that pump for repair.

Who's responsible if it suddenly quits working in a few weeks or months?

There's no way that I would accept responsibility....regardless the reason...I would have made that clear up front, or no go.

Not saying that you didn't do a good job, but I can see some major $$$$ if it ever has to be pulled.:smile:

Just my opinion
steve

 

[bkludecke]

I made the connections (crimps) and checked them for mechanical worthiness, put on the shrink tubing and believe the connections are going to outlast the pump. I will stand behind the installation 100% and pay the cost of repairs if my work causes a problem. That's how I operate.

That is also why I am constanly looking for improved methods and products to use.