Dave, I replaced a 1 hp submersible pump last week. It was installed in 1998. The homeowner had replaced the start capacitor the day before. Didn't solve the problem. It was the thermal overloads built into the motor.
Homeowners want to solve pump problems by replacing the capacitors and/or the pressure switch.
Over 90% of the time when a capacitor goes bad on a submersible pump, that's the symptom, not the actual problem. The actual problem is the pressure tank is bad. The pump has short cycled enough times to blow out the capacitor. It will blow the new capacitor out again until the pressure tank is replaced or recharged.
And no, I don't replace just the capacitors. I replace the e tire control box. It costs, more for me to trouble shoot it than to replace it, when you factor in my labor rate.
Buck, in the submersible well pump world, there are what we call 2 wire and 3 wire motors. The 2 wire motors are a maximum of 1 1/2 hp. They do not use a control box, they have a capacitor and centrifugal relay built into the motor. 3 wire pumps utilize an above ground control box. At a minimum it has a start capacitor and a solid state start/run relay. A 1 1/2 or larger will also have a run capacitor. Over 2 hp, you have the option of a 2 pole relay, with the pressure switch controlling the relay.