Suggestions

Location
Florida
Occupation
Electrician
Looking for any suggestions, here's the situation. I have 8 drivers for LED lights, it's all the same brand. They all have remotes for color changing. The owner wants each driver to have its own remote,since it's all the same brand any remote will work with all the drivers. I spoke with the lighting rep and inorder to program each driver with its own remote, rest of the drivers must have no power.

These lights will be controlled by a photoeye,that will engage the lighting contactor. I've come up with somewhat of a plan. I'll have single pole toggle switches outside of the lighting contactor enclosure. Basically power will be spliced, one pigtail to the switch and the other to feed my contactor. Also the SL will be spliced,with a pigtail to my switch and also to the contactor. Basically the switches will be an override. What's yalls thoughts on this? Open to suggestions. I understand if a switch is left on and the photoeye turns on ill have a bad day. Maybe put keyed switch there instead.
 

Todd0x1

Senior Member
Location
CA
When you say "to program each driver with its own remote, rest of the drivers must have no power" is this a one time thing to pair the remote with the driver? Or does it mean that the only way to have a remote operate only one driver is to have the other drivers powered down while using the remote to operate the desired driver?

Whats the make/model of these drivers?
 
Location
Florida
Occupation
Electrician
When you say "to program each driver with its own remote, rest of the drivers must have no power" is this a one time thing to pair the remote with the driver? Or does it mean that the only way to have a remote operate only one driver is to have the other drivers powered down while using the remote to operate the desired driver?

Whats the make/model of these drivers?
It's a ome time thing, once the remote is programed to its driver it has a memory and will save the pairing.
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
Ok. You have a switch (master on) that bypasses the photocontrol (red to black) that will pull in the contactor and turn all lights on.

Then you have a switch between the contactor and each driver. 8 switches that always stay on.

To program a driver, you turn the master on then turn off all the switches except the one you want to program.

If you are afraid of tampering you can use key operated switches.

-Hal
 
Location
Florida
Occupation
Electrician
Ok. You have a switch (master on) that bypasses the photocontrol (red to black) that will pull in the contactor and turn all lights on.

Then you have a switch between the contactor and each driver. 8 switches that always stay on.

To program a driver, you turn the master on then turn off all the switches except the one you want to program.

If you are afraid of tampering you can use key operated switches.

-Hal
That's a good suggestion. Thank you
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
i was working toward a way to replace all those toggle switches with a single 9 positon rotary switch
Yeah, but I don't think you will find a rotary switch that will provide that function or with the necessary current handling capacity directly. You are talking about a 9 position rotary selector switch controlling 8 relays (the relays will provide the function of those 8 switches) in a control panel.

-Hal
 

Todd0x1

Senior Member
Location
CA
Yeah, but I don't think you will find a rotary switch that will provide that function or with the necessary current handling capacity directly. You are talking about a 9 position rotary selector switch controlling 8 relays (the relays will provide the function of those 8 switches) in a control panel.

-Hal
UL 20 amp 9 position, off+8 outputs readily available for $75
 
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