switching exhaust fan with 12/3

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iwirehouses

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I know that inspectors arn't very sure about 12/3 circuits themselves. Other then the small appliance circuit, using 12/3 is kind of up in the air. I'm wondering though, if anyone has ever had a problem with switching an exhaust fan/light combo with 12/3 or the equivelent. The fan may have heat and a nightlight as well. Instead of running four 12/2 cables, I think it makes much more sense to run two 12/3's, am I wrong?
 
Why not install a short section of conduit, and install enough conductors (six) to do the whole job?

Black-White-Red-Blue-Orange-Green


 
iwirehouses said:
Instead of running four 12/2 cables, I think it makes much more sense to run two 12/3's, am I wrong?

No you're not wrong. I have always tried to consider cost and resource savings in a wiring lay out and this is a method I would (actually have) definitely use.

Roger
 
I normally have 12/4 MC on board and if that where not enough conductors a length of 1/2" flex would would work fine.

I can't imagine four - 12/2s entering those small JBs
 
We use 12/4 NM cable for these applications. One cable in the switch box and one in the fan. Anything more than that in the minuscule fan box is a nightmare.
 
We have 4-wire romex, but the problem here is you have 4 different switched loads and there ain't enough conductors present to do the job.

You need 4 hot conductors, and a neutral, plus a ground. ..:wink:
 
Very few residential guys even own a bender.Mc is ok but there is 12-4 nm now.Residential is about speed so i sugest a couplke runs of 12-3 or 12-4 nm.Now if thats too confusing to make up then perhaps we have bigger problems.Phase tape should do the trick
 
iwirehouses said:
IInstead of running four 12/2 cables, I think it makes much more sense to run two 12/3's, am I wrong?

Wouldn't that be a violation?


I asked this question over a year ago in regards to a fan/light/nightlight unit(Hunter).
I can't remember the article number....Infinity may have answered it :confused:
 
The only violation might be tying all the neutrals together in the fan unit. If you are running two neutrals in two cables, the loads on the read & black need to correspond with the neutral in the cable. 300.3(B)
 
iwirehouses said:
I know that inspectors arn't very sure about 12/3 circuits themselves. Other then the small appliance circuit, using 12/3 is kind of up in the air.

Be carefull there bucko! iWIREDhouses for 30 years before becoming an inspector!
 
Cavie said:
Be carefull there bucko! iWIREDhouses for 30 years before becoming an inspector!

So what?

LOL

No offense, but that sounds like the 'ol "That's the way we always do it" reply

:D
 
The bigger problem is in the switch box. You can't use a normal nail on without running into box fill issues, you have to use something bigger with a P ring.
 
monkey said:
The bigger problem is in the switch box. You can't use a normal nail on without running into box fill issues, you have to use something bigger with a P ring.

I just ditch the stack-switch that comes with the unit and install separate ordinary toggle switches for each load. Plenty of room in a 3- or 4-gang box!
 
iwire said:
I normally have 12/4 MC on board and if that where not enough conductors a length of 1/2" flex would would work fine.
Now, there's an idea. :)

I can't imagine four - 12/2s entering those small JBs
And I can't imagine running more than one grounded conductor if not needed.

infinity said:
We use 12/4 NM cable for these applications. One cable in the switch box and one in the fan.
So how does the power get in? :confused: :grin:

kbsparky said:
We have 4-wire romex, but the problem here is you have 4 different switched loads and there ain't enough conductors present to do the job.

You need 4 hot conductors, and a neutral, plus a ground. ..:wink:
Okay, so run a 12/2 and a 12/3, and color one of the whites blue.

480sparky said:
The only violation might be tying all the neutrals together in the fan unit. If you are running two neutrals in two cables, the loads on the read & black need to correspond with the neutral in the cable. 300.3(B)
I wouldn't run more than a single neutral in this type of install, unless there was a heat load requiring a separate circuit, and then I'd look into making it a MWBC.

Whether I need two 12/2's or a 12/2 and a 12/3, I color one of the whites to use as an additional switched leg (re-coloring prohibition be damned).
 
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