Tamper-resistant outlets

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jeff48356

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Livonia, Michigan
Today I was at the Home Depot, and I saw a box of tamper-resistant outlets. On the box, it said something about a new 2008 Code that requires them, and that it complies with it. What does the Code require in regards to using these? In which rooms do they need to be installed? I assume they are for children's safety. If that is the case, then how can any inspector enforce their usage without knowing whether any children are living in the house or not?
 
jeff48356 said:
On the box, it said something about a new 2008 Code that requires them, and that it complies with it.
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2008 406.11

What does the Code require in regards to using these? In which rooms do they need to be installed?
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All the 125 volt 15 and 20 amp receptacles that the code requires in 210.52 must be tamper proof.

I assume they are for children's safety.
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Yes.

If that is the case, then how can any inspector enforce their usage without knowing whether any children are living in the house or not?
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Because the NEC requires the tamper proof receptacles in all dwellings, not just dwellings that may have children.
 
iwire said:
2008 406.11



All the 125 volt 15 and 20 amp receptacles that the code requires in 210.52 must be tamper proof.



I believe the intent of 406.11 is to require all receptacles installed in rooms, or area's mentioned in 210.52 to be TR type. (not just the required receptacles).

Charlie
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cpal said:
I believe the intent of 406.11 is to require all receptacles installed in rooms, or area's mentioned in 210.52 to be TR type. (not just the required receptacles).

Charlie
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I wish it was spelled out better.

Why not just say all 15 & 20 amp 125 volt dwelling unit receptacles shall be tamper proof, why reference 210.52 at all?
 
iwire said:
I wish it was spelled out better.

Why not just say all 15 & 20 amp 125 volt dwelling unit receptacles shall be tamper proof, why reference 210.52 at all?
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I do too, the reference to 210.52 really muddles up the requirement in my opinion.

Chris
 
raider1 said:
I do too, the reference to 210.52 really muddles up the requirement in my opinion.

Chris
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But it says "all areas specified in 210.52".

If they only wanted the required receptacles to be TR, they would have said "all receptacles specified in 210.52".

P.S. No wonder P&S finally started making TR, GFCI receptacles.

Steve
 
Wow , so now we can have arc fault gfi protected with tamper proof receptacle in certain areas. Do they make the gfi tamper proof recpts yet?
I can see a lot of service calls in the next few years on all the failures of these devices, which will be a good thing.

Rick
 
and just think... any recept in a damp or wet location in a dwelling has to be weather resistant, tamper proof, and gfi protected
 
SiddMartin said:
and just think... any recept in a damp or wet location in a dwelling has to be weather resistant, tamper proof, and gfi protected
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add arc fault to that. they must make gfi/tamper receptacles, i see that it falls under 210.52
 
RUWired said:
add arc fault to that. they must make gfi/tamper receptacles, i see that it falls under 210.52
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so we have arc fault, weather resistant, tamper resistant and gfi protected, sounds like you need a 4 sq. :cool:
 
RUWired said:
Wow , so now we can have arc fault gfi protected with tamper proof receptacle in certain areas. Do they make the gfi tamper proof recpts yet?
I can see a lot of service calls in the next few years on all the failures of these devices, which will be a good thing.

Rick
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Yes they are available
 
Ever use a wiggy to hot check a receptacle outlet and see if the grounding connection is there? I haven't had a chance to handle one of these new devices yet but that thought occured to me the first time I heard they were changing to this requirement. I guess it will mean plate removal or carrying a 3 prong neon tester around all the time.
 
macmikeman said:
Ever use a wiggy to hot check a receptacle outlet and see if the grounding connection is there? I haven't had a chance to handle one of these new devices yet but that thought occured to me the first time I heard they were changing to this requirement. I guess it will mean plate removal or carrying a 3 prong neon tester around all the time.
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Not really...it just takes an extra step. Put the wiggy leads into the hot and neutral slots. You do not have to insert them at the exact same time. You can put one probe into one side, maintain pressure and put the other probe into the other side and both shutters will open. After you have made contact on both sides, remove the probe from the grounded side and insert it into the grounding hole.
 
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