Thoughts about wiring method for walk-in coolers and freezers?

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sw_ross

Senior Member
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NoDak
I’ve gone back and forth about my method of wiring walk-in’s.

Part of me wants to use Weather-Proof boxes and Sealtite, and Rain-Tight EMT connectors and couplings, etc. but the evaporators and other control related boxed aren’t weather-proof so maybe typical 4-square boxes and RS covers are acceptable?

The two that I wired up yesterday came with vapor-proof 4-foot fixtures (along with the typical vapor-proof jelly-jar light). Those seem to steer me in the direction of using a weather-proof wiring method.

What are your thoughts about what method you use?
Thanks
 
The most important thing is to seal the inside of the conduit at the boundary between the cold air inside and the warm moist air outside.
(much like the boundary between hazardous and non-hazardous zones)

If not, moisture will condense/freeze on the inside of electrical enclosures.

Moisture that finds its way in while the door is open is less problematic, because it will condense/freeze on the outside of electrical enclosures.
 
drcampbell said:
The most important thing is to seal the inside of the conduit at the boundary between the cold air inside and the warm moist air outside.
(much like the boundary between hazardous and non-hazardous zones)

If not, moisture will condense/freeze on the inside of electrical enclosures.

Moisture that finds its way in while the door is open is less problematic, because it will condense/freeze on the outside of electrical enclosures.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I usually duct seal the conduit that enters the unit.
 
I've never seen any reason to use anything wet location related and never been told to do anything different. The air inside is cool but drier than a desert. There was a thread on this about a month ago and apparently there are walk-ins where they hose down the inside with more water than gets used at the local car wash, so I guess it depends on if you have a normal walk in or one that is being used for a gym shower on the weekends.
 
We have maintenance contracts with produce warehouses. The principle of Thermodynamics dictate that the latent heat is remove first, before the sensible heat.
 
A good example of this ... if you are up skiing and you get your clothes wet and you put them out to dry on a clear night. The next morning you will find them dry and very cold.
 
Back when HID’s were popular for large freezer lighting, I found out if you don’t put an air gap between the fixture and the ceiling, you will come back to large icicles hanging from the fixtures! LOL!
 
ActionDave said:
I've never seen any reason to use anything wet location related and never been told to do anything different. The air inside is cool but drier than a desert. There was a thread on this about a month ago and apparently there are walk-ins where they hose down the inside with more water than gets used at the local car wash, so I guess it depends on if you have a normal walk in or one that is being used for a gym shower on the weekends.
Click to expand...
It depends on the cooler. I have done wash down coolers. They have floor drains in them. That's when I will use weatherproof equipment.
 
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