That 10% that water expands when it freezes is some powerful stuff. I once had to repair a large hydraulic cylinder that got damaged from freezing because there was so much water contamination in the oil. It didn't split the outside, the rod was made out of thick wall tubing and it collapsed the rod.
If the conduit ends are shortened, like I posted, or if the coupling isn't good-and-tight, you can drill a hole in the center of the coupling, missing the conduits, and then rotate the coupling so the hole is on the bottom. I'd rather use a C and drill a hole in that, but sometimes you gotta do what you can with what you got.
With non-condensating paint?
Like if the wires had already been pulled through, but who would make THAT mistake?
All I remember doing was adding a short nipple, (mostly 3/4" and 1") to each run, making it the lowest dropping point of the run, then installing these fittings. It was all done according to the specs.
I still don't understand. How exactly does a drain fitting with 1/2" male threads work without a T fitting?
Cut and thread a nipple long enough to make it the lowest spot on your run. Put a coupling on the end of it. Insert drain fitting into coupling.
So you do need a tee fitting. No way to install a nipple on an end to end run without a tee fitting.
Correct. Or come out of a box. The purpose is to create the lowest dropping point for moisture to exit the conduit. For example, if the box was already the lowest point in the run, just screw the fitting in an external threaded hub at the bottom of the box.
