Tip(s) for removing existing recessed light housing

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mark32

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Currently in NJ
A customer has four "New" work 4" LV Lightolier housings that I need to either remove or manipulate in some way in order to install four slightly larger 4" Halo "Old" work housings. I did two of them today, which was a lengthy process for me. I first took some tin snips to the center (Parallel to the j-box) of the frame, but couldn't cut completely through because of the drywall. I then took a pair of Kliens and a screwdriver to the slit and chiseled away until I completely cut through the frame on both sides. At that point I was able to push the, now jagged, non j-box side up and out of the way and kept the remaining j-box side intact so I could come out of it with a jumper to the new light. I have to go back in a few days to do the other two, if there's another way to get the Halo's up there without so much effort i'd love to hear it.
 
Sounds like a job for a Feintool (oscillating tool) with a metal cutting blade. Pricey, but once you buy one, you wont know how you lived w/o it until now.

Dremel (rotary) tool with reinforced fiberglass wheels are good too if the cut doesnt have to be that deep. Use safety glasses and gloves with both; grinding metal can throw microscopic chips into your hand, which will go under the skin and rust (happened to me once sharpening a chainsaw blade with the Dremel)
 
Sounds like a job for a Feintool (oscillating tool) with a metal cutting blade. Pricey, but once you buy one, you wont know how you lived w/o it until now.

Dremel (rotary) tool with reinforced fiberglass wheels are good too if the cut doesnt have to be that deep. Use safety glasses and gloves with both; grinding metal can throw microscopic chips into your hand, which will go under the skin and rust (happened to me once sharpening a chainsaw blade with the Dremel)

Thanks J,

So you are saying to cut out the drywall, to the size of the old work housing, then cut out the existing frame in a circular fashion with said tool, correct?
 
Thanks J,

So you are saying to cut out the drywall, to the size of the old work housing, then cut out the existing frame in a circular fashion with said tool, correct?


If you can remove it attic side, that's best. But sometimes you cant get up there, or dont want to go swimming in a sea of blown-in insulation. I'm saying cut it out any way you're able, that the aforementioned tools will make much quicker work of the old can than snips, chisels, or brute force*. It's hard to make neat circular cuts in drywall with either of those tools tho.

*Brute force would work great if there was enough slack in the wiring for it to not get damaged when you break it loose. Can light nails are pretty short and the tabs that go between the joist/drywall bend easily. I've used this method a fair amount with old bathroom fans after I undo the wire connections and remove the locknut on the NM fitting from the fan's integral j-box. I just push on it til it gives way, then cut the drywall to fit the new fan's dimensions. The Fein tool is for older lights with really sturdy brackets, or if the thing is screwed to the joists vs nailed.

I'm not familiar with Lightolier products to know if there is an easy/quick way to remove their old work cans from the room side. If you remove the setscrews from the inside edge of the can, wont it push up into the attic thru the frame nailed to the joists?
 
If you can remove it attic side, that's best. But sometimes you cant get up there, or dont want to go swimming in a sea of blown-in insulation. I'm saying cut it out any way you're able, that the aforementioned tools will make much quicker work of the old can than snips, chisels, or brute force*. It's hard to make neat circular cuts in drywall with either of those tools tho.

*Brute force would work great if there was enough slack in the wiring for it to not get damaged when you break it loose. Can light nails are pretty short and the tabs that go between the joist/drywall bend easily. I've used this method a fair amount with old bathroom fans after I undo the wire connections and remove the locknut on the NM fitting from the fan's integral j-box. I just push on it til it gives way, then cut the drywall to fit the new fan's dimensions. The Fein tool is for older lights with really sturdy brackets, or if the thing is screwed to the joists vs nailed.

I'm not familiar with Lightolier products to know if there is an easy/quick way to remove their old work cans from the room side. If you remove the setscrews from the inside edge of the can, wont it push up into the attic thru the frame nailed to the joists?


Thanks again J,

That's good stuff, I thank you for taking the time to write. I mentioned the frames were Lightolier because they are just a frame, not a can like most other brands. Here's a pic of one:

http://www.electricalsurplus.net/vdirs/images/fixtures/lightolier/1102PJNEW/Front.jpg
 
Thanks again J,

That's good stuff, I thank you for taking the time to write. I mentioned the frames were Lightolier because they are just a frame, not a can like most other brands. Here's a pic of one:

http://www.electricalsurplus.net/vdirs/images/fixtures/lightolier/1102PJNEW/Front.jpg

You're welcome. Thanks for the pic. The Fein tool could definitely slice thru that thin steel, making it two halves, which could then be bent up and pulled out of the way (with good gloves on).

Since you can easily access the wiring, you could get it loose from the jbox then beat the frame out with brute force methods. Its not worth it to buy a Fein tool for 2 can lights.

A small cat's paw (nail puller) that you can maneuver inside the hole will pop the nails from the housing ring, collapse the brackets, then toss aside. One of these:

http://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools...ZWQRduch3OPLZMxyW2BB1U0AVxCBrGLN-waArQg8P8HAQ
 
A customer has four "New" work 4" LV Lightolier housings that I need to either remove or manipulate in some way in order to install four slightly larger 4" Halo "Old" work housings.

I have to ask why. What's different about the Halos that would make someone go through this? Couldn't you find a Lightolier trim that was similar?

-Hal
 
I have to ask why. What's different about the Halos that would make someone go through this? Couldn't you find a Lightolier trim that was similar?

-Hal

Hey Hal,

The lightoliers are low voltage and use mr16's which the customer no longer wanted for a variety if reasons. More importantly, one of the transformers has failed.
 
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