Tool Question

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I have a job tomorrow installing some can lights into a kitchen in a 1940's house. The ceiling is perforated drywall with a metal mesh then plaster. I have run into this before and the metal mesh always causes issues. I do not want to go to cutting into the ceiling and snag the mesh and end up destroying the ceiling and causing the whole ceiling to need repaired.
In the past when I have encountered this type of wall I was usually cutting in new switch boxes and when I would snag the mesh with my sawzall blade it would crack the plaster and cause it to pretty much fall apart well beyond the area I was working.
Is there a tool that I can use... maybe a specific blade/bit for my rotozip? a special hole saw that will cut both plaster and metal without snagging the mesh?

Thanks Much.
M
 
You maybe able to use a hole saw designed for tile...it has no teeth. It uses diamond dust grit as the cutting agent.

PJHolguin :cool:



I have a job tomorrow installing some can lights into a kitchen in a 1940's house. The ceiling is perforated drywall with a metal mesh then plaster. I have run into this before and the metal mesh always causes issues. I do not want to go to cutting into the ceiling and snag the mesh and end up destroying the ceiling and causing the whole ceiling to need repaired.
In the past when I have encountered this type of wall I was usually cutting in new switch boxes and when I would snag the mesh with my sawzall blade it would crack the plaster and cause it to pretty much fall apart well beyond the area I was working.
Is there a tool that I can use... maybe a specific blade/bit for my rotozip? a special hole saw that will cut both plaster and metal without snagging the mesh?

Thanks Much.
M
 
I use utility blade for the first layer, then cut the mesh with my diagonal cutters then cut the last piece with drywall saw.
 
You maybe able to use a hole saw designed for tile...it has no teeth. It uses diamond dust grit as the cutting agent.

PJHolguin :cool:
There is your answer right there. I think that it is Lennox that makes a six inch carbide, toothless hole saw. There is some smaller sizes of similar hole saws at the big box stores.

Another option is to use a Fein. It will be slower, but once you own one you find more and more places to use it.
 
Tool Question

ActionDave is right and the tool works very well although going through the wire mesh is a little slow. I bought 2 different sizes from either Lowes or Home Depot--1 for 5" cans and 1 for 6" cans
 
I have a job tomorrow installing some can lights into a kitchen in a 1940's house. The ceiling is perforated drywall with a metal mesh then plaster. I have run into this before and the metal mesh always causes issues. I do not want to go to cutting into the ceiling and snag the mesh and end up destroying the ceiling and causing the whole ceiling to need repaired.
In the past when I have encountered this type of wall I was usually cutting in new switch boxes and when I would snag the mesh with my sawzall blade it would crack the plaster and cause it to pretty much fall apart well beyond the area I was working.
Is there a tool that I can use... maybe a specific blade/bit for my rotozip? a special hole saw that will cut both plaster and metal without snagging the mesh?

Thanks Much.
M

Carbide tipped hole saw run in reverse. Runs pretty well most of the time. leaves a nice clean cut. Sometimes takes a little effort.
 
Thank you guys very much. I think i found what I am looking for at Lowes.... oddly enough non of the electric supply houses locally have one...
Am going to try the carbide grit lighting hole saw by Lenox.
 
Thank you guys very much. I think i found what I am looking for at Lowes.... oddly enough non of the electric supply houses locally have one...
Am going to try the carbide grit lighting hole saw by Lenox.

Why didn't i think of that.:slaphead::slaphead: I have the grit hole saw myself. Now I need to find it tomorrow.


Try it on a piece of cardboard and do a test hole. Make sure the hole is a good size and not too big for your can.
 
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