Truck ran down parking lot 30' pole - help!

[jimmyglen]

We have been asked to replace a 30' 5" steel pole with (2) 400 WATT MH Shoe Boxes

there is a concrete existing base with the electric still intact

the anchor bolts are shot! really bent - almost dog legged

I am assuming that I should saw off the old bolts flush and install new anchor bolts

I can get a 3/4" x 12' long wedge anchor but I dont think that is enough

the supply house (for fastners etc) has long bolts that we could expoxy in or?

anyone have any experience with this?

I dont want to tear up the base (with a bobcat?) or should I perhaps?

thanks in advance

 

[petersonra]

This sounds like a question to be asked of someone who might actually have some expertise in that area. Perhaps the manufacturer of the pole?

 

[cowboyjwc]

My guess is that the pole bases were engineered, so then the fix would have to be engineered too.

I would "assume" that a 30' pole would have at least 36-48" j-bolts. I don't think that a 12" wedge anchor is going to do it.

 

[bluesmoke...oops]

judging by the title, iwire let another man go out driving. :grin:

 

[jimmyglen]

thanks for the help so far

I am thinking that the wedge anchors may not cut it

My insurance co sure would'nt be happy if that pole blows over in the wind

I am sure someone has had to fix something like this before ?

 

[boatfull]

thanks for the help so far

I am thinking that the wedge anchors may not cut it

My insurance co sure would'nt be happy if that pole blows over in the wind

I am sure someone has had to fix something like this before ?

as cowboyjwc said it was engineered putting it in. i would get the engineer of record to come with a way to do it. you need to cya.

 

[iwire]

thanks for the help so far

I am thinking that the wedge anchors may not cut it

My insurance co sure would'nt be happy if that pole blows over in the wind

I am sure someone has had to fix something like this before ?

The manufacturer of the pole can usually tell you what you need.

There is no way I would use 12" wedge anchors to hold a 30' pole.

I think there is a strong change those wedge anchors might split the base.

 

[cadpoint]

I'd go to the owner and ask to see the site plan or the EE plans that give the details for the light base, and note all the construction aspects.

Since it seems your going to do this anywas... please consider the bolt pattern of the base of the new alignment
to the desired position of the existing lamps in the over-head.

If it's a round pole or even a square one this might only matter to the existing precut holes up top, or you'd have to reweld the
attachment to match the new pattern or ask the pole manufacture to
swing the alignment of the bolt plate to the correct new position, if getting a new pole.

Seems simple enough some poles don't come with any holes up top, but this is easy to forget.

 

[construct]

thanks for the help so far

I am thinking that the wedge anchors may not cut it

My insurance co sure would'nt be happy if that pole blows over in the wind

I am sure someone has had to fix something like this before ?

I'm with the others on this. Even if you could find the original engineering on the pole base, it likely would show embedded anchors. That leaves you with having to get a designed fix. Simpson and Hilti are two manufacturers I know of that sell wedge and epoxied anchors. An engineer will look at the manufacturers specs that will give him/her the sheer and withdrawl capacities based on diameter and length of embedment. Then he/she will calculate the lateral load based on wind speed and seismic category for your area. Then the engineer will say use this type and size anchor with this spacing and install per the manufacturers instructions.

 

[shepelec]

Chemical anchors work great.

But like the rest said get an engineer to approve it.

 

[cowboyjwc]

I'm not saying that they don't have a epoxy fix that will work, but I'm leaning more towards you having to remove the pole base and replace it.

 

[cal1947]

retired

retired

thanks for the help so far

I am thinking that the wedge anchors may not cut it

My insurance co sure would'nt be happy if that pole blows over in the wind

I am sure someone has had to fix something like this before ?

we used to replace old light pole some times we had a welding co. make steel plates with bolts welded bolts in place and then weld them to the exiting bolts

 

[220/221]

I have fixed my share of poles. Our standard poles are 20' x 4" so I'd give more consideration to your 30' x 5" poles.

I have:

1. Removed the base completely (trackhoe and crane) and poured a new one in it's place.

2. Removed the only above ground portion (jackhammer and grinder) and drilled/installed a new base next to it.

3. Removed a sizable portion of the above ground concrete 24-30" (jackhammer), installed new j bolts and reworked the rebar rings.

3. Removed just enough concrete to install rod couplings.


I've always felt comfortable with the rod couplings if they are screwed tight, bolt touching bolt.

A couple years ago I even removed and relocated some poles and bases. I dug them up, cut the conduit and picked them out with a crane. Came back a few days later and set them in new holes.

 

[220/221]

Another one.

 

[jmellc]

Another one.

Do I see a taped up J box on the PVC, down in the sono tube? How would anyone ever get into that box if there were a problem? Would have to know exact location & hammer drill the concrete to get to it. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[busman]

Do I see a taped up J box on the PVC, down in the sono tube? How would anyone ever get into that box if there were a problem? Would have to know exact location & hammer drill the concrete to get to it. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm sure it's a JB, but it looks like it's for a receptacle on the pole and the tape is to keep the concrete out.

Mark

 

[RichB]

See post #14--that's how we do our street lighting here in the good ole Wash DOT--only without the taped up JB

 

[220/221]

Do I see a taped up J box on the PVC, down in the sono tube? How would anyone ever get into that box if there were a problem? Would have to know exact location & hammer drill the concrete to get to it. Correct me if I'm wrong.

The opening of the JB (1G masonry box) is on the outside of the pier and covered with a blank plate (after concrete). It's not visable in the pic but I tie wired it tight to the tube.

I had to extend this base up but did not want to pull several hundred feet of new conductors.