UL Listed old work beam mounted boxes for outlets

Status
Not open for further replies.
H

howardrichman

Senior Member
I'd usually install plastic nail on boxes, nails pulled- screwed to the beam for all light, switch, and receptacle outlets. I try not to use old work winged boxes for receptacles cause of the lack of strength for in sheet rock, and not suitable for damaged
walls. I've tried to use an approved box w/ supplied screws, but take up 1/3rd the cu in. internally and hard to fit a GFI, dimmer, timer etc. devices.


Thanks for reply;
HR...
 
What are you putting in them that doesn't fit, that doesn't fit that well in most other "old work" boxes either?
 
What I have done- and it is not compliant- is to cut the nails off of a box and screw the box to a stud. I use sheetrock type screws in the upper and lower corners and put a touch of duct seal or silicone on the screws to keep them from getting energized. The screws are installed in the corner where the top and the sides come together and where the bottom and sides come together.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
What I have done- and it is not compliant- is to cut the nails off of a box and screw the box to a stud. I use sheetrock type screws in the upper and lower corners and put a touch of duct seal or silicone on the screws to keep them from getting energized. The screws are installed in the corner where the top and the sides come together and where the bottom and sides come together.
Click to expand...

Sorry but I think unless maybe you were attaching to metal studs there is no point in covering those screws. (so what if a screw gets energized?) Though it likley isn't compliant I have no issues myself with mounting a box in this manner, I seldom do it, Arlington's box designed for the purpose is easier to mount as well in most instances.
 
Any way on 2g+ boxes to use a standard switch next to the mount? I know dimmers, GFCI, commercial grade switches are wide, but you can shift it to one side if you're worried about the terminals touching the screw heads. If that doesnt cut it for you, you could always put an extra gang box in and blank off the one spot next to the screw mounts, heck, even upsell it as "future proofing". :happyyes:

eta: they do sell slimline GFCI that are ~ a quarter less deep than standard for old shallower boxes. There's another option on depth, tho it doesnt grant you any extra room per box fill calculations.
 
I have never had a GFCI or dimmer that won't work in the Arlington box mentioned. Not saying there aren't any out there that won't work either, just that I haven't run into one.
 
I have never had an issue with the Smartboxes and fitting a device in. There is no way the screws take up 1/3 the volume.

The other option is a metal box with a side bracket.
 
I'm misunderstanding the problem. Are you saying you want to cut in old work boxes to a finished wall/ceiling, but you also want to attach them to the framing?

If so, those smart boxes work well and are very sturdy. They seem pretty roomy to me, the folks that designed them didn't forget that there are wide-bodied devices such as dimmers, timers, etc.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top