stevecard1
Member
What is the present code worthy method of hardwiring 120V under cabinet lights in a kitchen?
I am attempting to install a few 120 volt under cabinet light fixtures (W.A.C. Model BA-LIV-1) in a kitchen application. Each proposed light location has about 48" of existing 14-2 NM cable protruding directly through the wall below each cabinet, just at the top of a porcelain tile backsplash. Each cabinet is relatively small at 12" x 12" so working space is fairly limited. Is there a way to make a legal, essentially 'spliceless' transition from NM to BX cable? This would involve removing the NM sheath and replacing it with 14-2 BX armor and appropriate plastic bushings.
I've considered Wiremold V700, but the 12" x12" space will not accommodate the required hardware. I've also considered 1/2 EMT, but that offers a fairly 'industrial' appearance for a residential kitchen. I've looked at Wiremold Model 2000 (or similar) raceway that could be concealed with a 1/4" panel trim, but that's a pretty significant effort in this particular case. I've even thought about nailing couple of firing strips and 1/4" panel board to form a wooden raceway, but that method still seems vulnerable to possible damage from a simple cup hook. If it were legal, a spliceless transition from NM to BX cable would seem to be a good solution. Any thoughts?
I am attempting to install a few 120 volt under cabinet light fixtures (W.A.C. Model BA-LIV-1) in a kitchen application. Each proposed light location has about 48" of existing 14-2 NM cable protruding directly through the wall below each cabinet, just at the top of a porcelain tile backsplash. Each cabinet is relatively small at 12" x 12" so working space is fairly limited. Is there a way to make a legal, essentially 'spliceless' transition from NM to BX cable? This would involve removing the NM sheath and replacing it with 14-2 BX armor and appropriate plastic bushings.
I've considered Wiremold V700, but the 12" x12" space will not accommodate the required hardware. I've also considered 1/2 EMT, but that offers a fairly 'industrial' appearance for a residential kitchen. I've looked at Wiremold Model 2000 (or similar) raceway that could be concealed with a 1/4" panel trim, but that's a pretty significant effort in this particular case. I've even thought about nailing couple of firing strips and 1/4" panel board to form a wooden raceway, but that method still seems vulnerable to possible damage from a simple cup hook. If it were legal, a spliceless transition from NM to BX cable would seem to be a good solution. Any thoughts?