Under cabinet plugmold

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sketchy

sketchy

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MN
Anybody have experience installing u.c. plugmold? I'm wiring a house for the first time in 6 years and the home owner wants u.c. lights and plugmold, both mounted to the bottom of the cabinet. The lights I've done before but never plugmold. Any ideas or suggestions on how to make this look good? I was thinking of coming out of the wall in the corner with wiremold, run that to the front and switch over to plugmold. The lights, xenon, will be mounted on the wall side of the cabinet. Yes, no, other ideas?
 
good luck

good luck

Good luck with that! It is no fun to install, especially if you are standing on your head to do it. If you can supply the plug mold straight to the end of the stuff, you will save yourself a lot of trouble. If you have to come in the back, it is necessary to make a sharp turn which is difficult with #12. There are inline connectors sold for use with this product. A wire nut will not fit and the splices have to be staggered in order to fit the channel.
Have fun.
 
What Greg1707 said. Plugmold can be a PITA. For plugmold & lighting at the same cabinet I always put the plugmold against the

wall & your lights towards the front of the cabinet. Use a porta-band-saw to cut the plugmold. I would suggest WAGO brand or similar

type of push nuts for your connections. Plugmold is expensive so measure the cabinet twice & cut once. Locate your GFCI in the

pantry or other out of the way location. Only one 12-2 at each location. Yes two 12-2 will fit but don't do it. Standing on your head

is not fun. For romex protection at the feed end a Arlington black button worked for my installations. Hope this helps.
 
Does it have to be on the cabinet or is it acceptable to be on the wall directly below the cabinet? That is somewhat more of a common practice - especially if they have fancy tile backsplash that they don't want "uglified" by wall receptacles.

The receptacles must still be no more than 20" above the countertop to count as receptacles that satisfy 210.52(C)
 
electricguy61 said:
This product is much easier to install.

http://www.tasklighting.com/products/angle-power-strip/6069608
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The angled plugmold is exactly what I used in my own kitchen. It's about 1000 times easier to install than regular plugmold. It comes in various lengths so there's no cutting. They'll give you whatever recep you'd like - TR , non-TR, 15A, 20A. It's also available with switches built in, for the lights. There's nothing in my backsplash except backsplash.
Dimmable LED undercabinet lights are available on the same website.
It's pricey.
 
Thanks for the input. Can you run romex exposed under a cabinet or does it need to be sleeved with conduit? I'm thinking if the lights are toward the front of the cabinet.
 
Romex is not supposed to be installed where exposed to possible damage or run on the surface. I have never had an AHJ question

the short piece of Romex that feeds under cabinet lights. Shallow wiremold would be the best option to protect romex in these

situations if so required.
 
John120/240 said:
Romex is not supposed to be installed where exposed to possible damage or run on the surface. I have never had an AHJ question

the short piece of Romex that feeds under cabinet lights. Shallow wiremold would be the best option to protect romex in these

situations if so required.
Click to expand...
I disagree, read 334.15. It can be exposed, it must closely follow building surfaces or running boards, and must be protected where subject to physical damage. Just how much risk of physical damage is typical for a cable installed on the underside of a typical kitchen cabinet?
 
sketchy said:
Thanks for the input. Can you run romex exposed under a cabinet or does it need to be sleeved with conduit? I'm thinking if the lights are toward the front of the cabinet.
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Use low voltage lighting, run 18/2 cable. Line voltage UC lights give off way too much heat for my liking.
 
JES2727 said:
Use low voltage lighting, run 18/2 cable. Line voltage UC lights give off way too much heat for my liking.
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Unless you have a listed class 2 system, low voltage lighting still needs to follow chapter 1-4 wiring method requirements, especially conductor ampacity and overcurrent protection sections.

A 20 watt xenon lamp operating at 120 volts draws about .167 amps and is going to give off about the same heat as a 20 watt xenon lamp operating at 12 volts that draws about 1.67 amps (10 times as much current).

Reduced voltage does not decrease fire hazards, it may lower risk of electric shock hazards.
 
kwired said:
Unless you have a listed class 2 system, low voltage lighting still needs to follow chapter 1-4 wiring method requirements, especially conductor ampacity and overcurrent protection sections.

A 20 watt xenon lamp operating at 120 volts draws about .167 amps and is going to give off about the same heat as a 20 watt xenon lamp operating at 12 volts that draws about 1.67 amps (10 times as much current).

Reduced voltage does not decrease fire hazards, it may lower risk of electric shock hazards.
Click to expand...

I was really thinking LED when I said Low Voltage. Smaller gauge wire, negligible heat. IMO, it's the way to go.
 
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