Underground service on house with brick ledge

[jeff48356]

I've never dealt with this situation before, but I'm wiring a house with a brick bottom and siding top. The underground conduit must run up the brick part of the wall, but that is much too low to mount the meter base. It would have to be installed on the sided part. However, the brick ledge comes out 2" past the brick surface, then wraps back about 5-6" to the surface to be with siding. Do they make 2" PVC bent conduit assemblies for this purpose? If not, how difficult would it be to bend a piece of PVC so it fits the contour of the house up to where the meter base needs to be?

This would be a lot easier for everyone, and look a lot better, if they didn't cheap out and go with half brick and half siding. If this were my house, I would INSIST that they do the entire house in brick. Then I could simply use a couple of brick brackets and mount the meter base wherever I need it.

 

[ronalddunbar@comcast.net]

I would think it would not be too difficult to heat the 2” conduit to make whatever bend you need.
Ron


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[jeff48356]

I would think it would not be too difficult to heat the 2” conduit to make whatever bend you need.
Ron

OK, I've never done that before. What kind of tool would I use, and does Home Depot carry them? Also, would the PVC need to be schedule 80, since it's above grade going into the meter base?

 

[ptonsparky]

You could buy a couple 45s or 30s and back to back them. Shorten them up a bit if needed and / or roll them a bit if you have to. May LLS, or close but sometimes.

 

[ptonsparky]

Good tailpipe on a still hot large block Chevy works.

 

[ronalddunbar@comcast.net]

I have a heating blanket. I’ve had one forever. I’m not sure if Home Depot sells them. You could also use a good heat gun but it will take longer.


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[Strathead]

OOOOOH! First off there should have been some disclaimers here. You are only supposed to use equipment identified for the bend. I would still not hesitate to use a hair dryer or a heat gun, at about $20 from Harbor Freight. If you are going to bend, make sure you start by putting on a good pair of leather gloves and heat a fairly long section all the way around before bending. You have to make sure you don't flatten the PVC. Lastly, looking at your picture, I would tell whoever is in charge that they need to remove the ledge portion of the brick where you need to bring up the PVC. Then jsut bend back toward the wall not out around this part. If they refuse, the stand the riser out don't go around that ledge. It will be ugly and more difficult.

 

[growler]

I would tell whoever is in charge that they need to remove the ledge portion of the brick where you need to bring up the PVC. Then jsut bend back toward the wall not out around this part. If they refuse, the stand the riser out don't go around that ledge. It will be ugly and more difficult.

A hammer and chisel will take care of that brick ledge. :happyyes:

 

[sameguy]

Remove 2 ledge bricks and use 1-5/8" strut.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

If it okay with the home owner and the GC, I would pedestal mount the meter and enter the basement (if that is where the panel is going) either underground 90 up and LB in just above the sill in between the joists or core the foundation directly in the basement to the panel.

 

[Craigv]

Use a brick chisel set just in from the overhang distance so your hammer blows transfer down into the lower bricks instead of levering the ledge bricks right out. Score them well, then give each a good wack. If you're lucky half the wall won't fall off.....

Two bricks is plenty. Next time catch the bricklayers and have them cut two bricks where you need them.

 

[jeff48356]

Use a brick chisel set just in from the overhang distance so your hammer blows transfer down into the lower bricks instead of levering the ledge bricks right out. Score them well, then give each a good wack. If you're lucky half the wall won't fall off.....

Two bricks is plenty. Next time catch the bricklayers and have them cut two bricks where you need them.

Ok thanks! I was watching the brick masons last weekend, but I wasn't sure what to do with the service at that time. i was concentrating on getting the rough-in finished (interior), because the service isn't required to be completed for a rough inspection; only on a final. I can break off a couple of bricks where the conduit goes, then mortar around it to look good after it's installed. I think that would look better (and be easier to pull the service conductors) than the S-shaped bend without breaking the bricks. I just passed the rough inspection yesterday, so now I can concentrate on the service while the other workers can move on with insulation, drywall, etc.

 

[meternerd]

Be careful....check with the utility to make sure they will allow what you want to do. Some (ours) do not allow bends in the UG conduit above ground and do not allow heated bends at all. Too many issues with pulling resistance, so we just quit allowing them altogether.

 

[masterinbama]

I bend 3" pvc on my gas grill all the time.

 

[Craigv]

Ok thanks! I was watching the brick masons last weekend, but I wasn't sure what to do with the service at that time. i was concentrating on getting the rough-in finished (interior), because the service isn't required to be completed for a rough inspection; only on a final. I can break off a couple of bricks where the conduit goes, then mortar around it to look good after it's installed. I think that would look better (and be easier to pull the service conductors) than the S-shaped bend without breaking the bricks. I just passed the rough inspection yesterday, so now I can concentrate on the service while the other workers can move on with insulation, drywall, etc.

Meternerd brought up a good point: check with the utility to be sure bends are allowed. If not, another, but more involved route would be to sawcut a channel straight up. You'll have to cut and j-hammer out all the way down to the sweep so this is really involved, and also flash the channel if there's wood framing.

I would call this an oversight by the GC or architect, who should have planned for installation of the service.

 

[romex jockey]

OK, I've never done that before. What kind of tool would I use, and does Home Depot carry them? Also, would the PVC need to be schedule 80, since it's above grade going into the meter base?

I use a roof torch, there's usually no power, and i've busted all my hot boxes anyways

roof torch

and sch 80 is a poco thing

also, why not box it out in strut? you can get strut nuts and bolt one piece on top of the other

~RJ~

 

[romex jockey]

I would call this an oversight by the GC or architect, who should have planned for installation of the service.

oh please.......most of them couldn't plan a lunch together...... ~RJ~

 

[Craigv]

oh please.......most of them couldn't plan a lunch together...... ~RJ~

If I was drinking coffee, I'd have to clean it off my iPad...:lol:

 

[Craigv]

I use a roof torch, there's usually no power, and i've busted all my hot boxes anyways

roof torch

and sch 80 is a poco thing

also, why not box it out in strut? you can get strut nuts and bolt one piece on top of the other

~RJ~

...or get the $30 Harbor Freight weed burner ($40 at a respectable store) which is the same tool with a shorter hose.

Just practice on scraps or be prepared to tell others your first efforts were on scraps....

 

[ptonsparky]

Plugging at least one end of the pipe helps to keep the pipe from cooling quickly. Good while heating and making the bends, but not so much while you're waiting for them to cool down.