If you are not adding receptacles to the circuit the rule about not interconnecting the equipment ground wipers of each receptacle to each other may not come into it but if you replace the receptacles with the grounding type, and the pathway for the conductors is via the old original, General Electric (GE) BRONX (BX) factory, Armored Cable (AC) the only way to avoid connecting those grounding pin wipers to each other is to use Isolated Ground Receptacles. If the circuit is run in the original non metallic cable; often called rag wire for it's woven cloth jacket; then you can use regular receptacles because Cloth covered non metallic sheathed cable that does not have an equipment grounding, or the earlier much smaller bonding conductor, in the cable will not cause an accidental conductive pathway between the Grounding pin wipers of the different receptacles.
[Do you know how BX got that name? Everything shipped from a GE plant had a 2 letter code on it to indicate the GE factory at which it was made. That is why every single roll of the original armored cable, which was a patent protected product of the General Electric Company, had a wire affixed card stock tag that had the Bronx factory's 2 letter "BX" code on it. Which is easier to say? Armored Cable or "BX." Which was easier for a new apprentice to identify when you sent them to get you another roll of cable. They could look for the tiny paper UL listing label or you could say "Go down to the supply cache and get me a roll of BX." The BX tag was hard to miss. Type MC Metal Clad cable was devised as a competitor to the then patented AC cable. I don't know if Type MC cable was ever made without the separate Equipment Grounding Conductor (EGC) but in ~50 years in the craft I never saw any.
In order to assuage the fear that the Home Inspector's report may cause for your perspective buyer client you could install Combination Ground Fault, Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters. Many of the Home Inspectors know that the existing receptacles are exempt from any newer Equipment Grounding Conductor rules but they write it up for 2 reasons. One is to cover their but against the cause of tort action in a civil court suit called "Failure to Warn of Known Danger." The other reason is that a part of their job is to give the buyer as many clubs to beat down the selling price with as they can find. The buyer will demand that the hazard be addressed prior to closing on the sale. The sellers tell them that doing that is so expensive to be out of the question because the sellers have also bought the home inspectors assertion that the receptacles must be grounded for occupant safety which is not in fact a requirement of any addition of the National Electric Code. Now the buyers will offer to accept the ungrounded receptacles in return for a reduction in the selling price to cover the upgrading themselves. If the seller gives in to that demand they will forfeit a lot more money than the problem actually cost to make code compliant. If the seller knows the actual rules they simply say that those receptacles were legal when they were installed and they are legal now but since your so concerned we will bring them up to the present Electric Code rules for such receptacles. That home inspector is not coming back unless he is paid to do another inspection. At several hundred dollars a pop that is most unlikely. The buyers see new receptacles with the Ground Pin port and all is well. The seller has spent relatively little money and kept their word. They brought the receptacles up to current code for such receptacles. The color or type of
I had a service call were the family selling the house was really anxious as to how much this would cost them. I installed the required GFCI breaker and then asked the question that honesty made me ask for the sake of both parties. "If you would like I can spend the rest of the minimum 4 hour service call making these receptacles as safe as they could possibly be." Only the living room outlets were ungrounded because previous remodeling had brought the others into full compliance with the requirements for new construction. I told them they would have to get the baseboards reinstalled but they still wanted the grounding done at the cost I was able to offer them. The basement below was partially unfinished which gave me the access to run the Equipment Grounding Conductor. I removed the 3 baseboards which were beneath the receptacles and ran UL listed flat copper braid 12 American Wire Gauge (AWG), that I already had in the van, from box to box stapled behind the baseboard below the bottom of the drywall. One hole into the basement between joists, measure off the braid needed, run it back to the water pipe were it came in from the water utility's main, buff the pipe to bright copper with Emory cloth tape, cover bright portion with copper antioxidant paste, install the clamp and done. That left the circuit in better shape than the ones in the detached garage that the home inspector hadn't mentioned but were far more dangerous due to the conductive concrete floor. I threw a GFCI receptacle in there and drove away with a paid work ticket and a clean conscience.
