dmulhol925
Member
When installing unistrut for supports, are end caps required by OSHA?
Unistrut
- Thread starter dmulhol925
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I don't think that they are, but they look good.
gadfly56
Senior Member
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Professional Engineer, Fire & Life Safety
If the cut ends are in any way likely to snag a leg or face, the usual "general duty" clause might be invoked, but absent some serious injury that could be linked to a ragged end, I doubt that Unistrut is high on anyone's hazard list.
yrs ago.... couple travelers were filing, filing, filing, filing, filing....
finally someone mentioned to them about the 15 minute filing a piece of unistrut.
there comeback was
(picture with a slow southern drawl)
Somebody might get cut........
That somebody might be me.......
ok, and that was that :- )
finally someone mentioned to them about the 15 minute filing a piece of unistrut.
there comeback was
(picture with a slow southern drawl)
Somebody might get cut........
That somebody might be me.......
ok, and that was that :- )
- Occupation
- Licensed Electrician
An old man was getting rid of his loveseat. Put it out on his front porch with a sign marked "FREE".
I asked him what he was doing that for?
In that same slow, southern drawl he said, "Can't get no lovin', don't need no loveseat."
StarCat
Industrial Engineering Tech
- Location
- Moab, UT USA
- Occupation
- Imdustrial Engineering Technician - HVACR Electrical and Mechanical Systems
Unistrut Finishing
Unistrut Finishing
Interestingly enough, after getting fairly good at cutting strut with a very nice Milwaukee band saw, I still dress the cuts " quickly " with a file.
On this one I did use end caps.
Unistrut Finishing
Interestingly enough, after getting fairly good at cutting strut with a very nice Milwaukee band saw, I still dress the cuts " quickly " with a file.
On this one I did use end caps.
Attachments
mopowr steve
Senior Member
- Location
- NW Ohio
- Occupation
- Electrical contractor
Just WOW!
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
I still see some uncapped ends
Is that by chance stainless strut, looks like a lot of other stainless around and likely a wash down location.
StarCat
Industrial Engineering Tech
- Location
- Moab, UT USA
- Occupation
- Imdustrial Engineering Technician - HVACR Electrical and Mechanical Systems
Yea
Yea
True, I only capped the tops up on the platform. I guess we could go back and do all open ends.
This entire plant is galvanized unistrut unfortunately.
Many standards have otherwise been raised.
Yea
I still see some uncapped ends
Is that by chance stainless strut, looks like a lot of other stainless around and likely a wash down location.
True, I only capped the tops up on the platform. I guess we could go back and do all open ends.
This entire plant is galvanized unistrut unfortunately.
Many standards have otherwise been raised.
J.P.
Senior Member
- Location
- United States
I'll hit them with a file and get rid of any jagged edges. Just takes a second or 10.
I only do this when it is in a accessible area.
I only do this when it is in a accessible area.
All Depends on how the strut is installed and used. Found these on a project I walked through a few months back. Strut driven into the ground to support a conduit. Rough from being hammered into the ground. I recommended that at a minimum the ends be cut and a plastic or rubber cap be installed. Code violation id say yes for not installed in a neat and workman like manner. Oh by the way this was typical for about 20 locations on this project.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
Unistrut is Erector Set for big boys:happyyes:
SceneryDriver
Senior Member
- Location
- NJ
- Occupation
- Electrical and Automation Designer
I own this saw:
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6190-20
It makes almost unbelievably clean cuts in Unistrut, DIN rail, all-thread, and conduit. Practically no burr, clean, and perfectly straight. MUCH better than an abrasive cutoff saw - no smoke, fire or gritty mess - and more consistent than a Porta-band. The grind of the teeth puts all the cut's heat into the chip, so the work stays nice and cool.
The blades ARE re-sharpenable too, despite what some shops might say. You just have to find a sharpening shop who knows what they're doing. Anyone who can sharpen carbide-tipped blades (and replace the occasional tooth too) should be able to do dry-cut blades.
Not exactly the most easily portable tool, but it's easy to set up on a piece of plywood on sawhorses in you have many cuts to do. Someone was really thinking when they designed that saw too; the base is 3-1/2" high. That's the perfect height to use a 2x4 as a workpiece support for long pieces.
It's a real shame that Milwaukee apparently isn't selling it's version of a dry cut saw anymore. I looked at several before settling on the Milwaukee; most other saws had a stamped steel base, instead of cast aluminum, and were flimsy. Grab a used or refurb-ed Milwaukee saw if you can. It's well worth the $$.
SceneryDriver
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6190-20
It makes almost unbelievably clean cuts in Unistrut, DIN rail, all-thread, and conduit. Practically no burr, clean, and perfectly straight. MUCH better than an abrasive cutoff saw - no smoke, fire or gritty mess - and more consistent than a Porta-band. The grind of the teeth puts all the cut's heat into the chip, so the work stays nice and cool.
The blades ARE re-sharpenable too, despite what some shops might say. You just have to find a sharpening shop who knows what they're doing. Anyone who can sharpen carbide-tipped blades (and replace the occasional tooth too) should be able to do dry-cut blades.
Not exactly the most easily portable tool, but it's easy to set up on a piece of plywood on sawhorses in you have many cuts to do. Someone was really thinking when they designed that saw too; the base is 3-1/2" high. That's the perfect height to use a 2x4 as a workpiece support for long pieces.
It's a real shame that Milwaukee apparently isn't selling it's version of a dry cut saw anymore. I looked at several before settling on the Milwaukee; most other saws had a stamped steel base, instead of cast aluminum, and were flimsy. Grab a used or refurb-ed Milwaukee saw if you can. It's well worth the $$.
SceneryDriver
FREEBALL
Senior Member
- Location
- york pa usa
wow is right
wow is right
I remember working at anheuser bush (forgive me my spelling) but in their plant everything was stainless in direct vicinity of food or clean areas. the support for conduit was right angle steel welded into what needed to be configured. The rod supporting the conduit racks was also threaded so as only the needed threads were exposed. The conduit was robroy (pvc coated rigid gal) and I never would have seen a unistrut system like this. Is this something that isn't food prep. just wondering.
wow is right
I remember working at anheuser bush (forgive me my spelling) but in their plant everything was stainless in direct vicinity of food or clean areas. the support for conduit was right angle steel welded into what needed to be configured. The rod supporting the conduit racks was also threaded so as only the needed threads were exposed. The conduit was robroy (pvc coated rigid gal) and I never would have seen a unistrut system like this. Is this something that isn't food prep. just wondering.
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