Are you saying you have found tapered conduit couplings? If so can you point me in direction to them?
i am licensed as both a specialty electrician and a specialty plumber, for pump and Irrigstion work. We will install deep set submersible pumps on galvanized pipe, with the non-tapered merchant couplings. Do not have any leakage problems, even at 300-400 psi.
In my industry we have mostly gone to sch 80 or 120 PVC pipe for drop pipe for applications under 2 inch diameter and less than 400 ft depth. We cut and thread this pvc pipe, just like galvanized steel pipe. We use stainless steel couplers that are tapered. Though I have installed 1,000’s of feet of PVC pipe on black or galvanized steel merchant couplings. The reason I stop using pvc at 400 ft is that is as deep as the manufacturer will warranty it. I do know installers that think nothing of using it for a 700 ft setting. So any way, if the pump gets set deeper than 400 ft, I use galvanized steel pipe. Or if it’s larger than 2” diameter, it’s steel pipe only.
if you use a thread compound, you shouldn’t have a problem with straight threaded galvanized steel couplings. On non-potable applications I use Jet-lube Kopr Kote. On potable applications, I use Jet-lube Eco-safe, or one of the other quality thread compounds.
if you really want couplers with tapered threaded fittings, you have to go to the cast iron plumbing couplers. Available at Orange and blue big box stores or any plumbing supply. Any inspector will notice that you are using plumbing cast couplers though.
i did work for one drilling and pump contractor years ago, that had an application for left hand threaded pvc pipe. We had a Ridgid hand die set up to cut the left hand threads on the pvc pipe. We bought DOM steel tubing and made the left hand threaded couplers on a lathe in the shop. Of course the saying at that contractor was “Why buy it for $5000 if we can build it ourselves for $10,000”.
So use the standard conduit coupler with a thread compound. Or use a cast coupler with tapered threads, with a thread compound, and run the risk of the inspector rejecting it. Or machine your own couplers with a tapered thread. I would pick option 1.