vanity light questions

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Cooper Electrical

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I get sent out of alot of bath remodels and maybe the homeowner is the G.C
and they dont have the exact center of the vanity ....so for the most part i just leave a tail and box it after vanity is set . Just wondering what you guys do ? I also set them at 78" A.F.F thanks
 
and they dont have the exact center of the vanity
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that's their fault not yours. in that case i go w/ whats on the plans; w/ builders i do regular work for i can usually guess because they use the same vanity setup in each house, or something very similar. and i go 84" aff - 36" countertop, 4" backsplash, 41" mirror; that's what i normally encounter.
 
I give the customer the chance to tell me the mounting height and side-to-side location. If I get no response, I judge the height and center on the sink drain.
 
I stub out with NM, gives you more wiggle room. Of course if the homeowner is going to be hanging a heavy, fancy light that needs a 3/0 or braced box then they should know the mirror height and sink location anyways.
 
Cooper Electrical said:
....so for the most part i just leave a tail and box it after vanity is set.
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wireman71 said:
I stub out with NM, gives you more wiggle room.
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What do you do when you cut the opening for your fixture old-work box and find a PVC drain vent 1/2" behind the drywall?
 
LarryFine said:
What do you do when you cut the opening for your fixture old-work box and find a PVC drain vent 1/2" behind the drywall?
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Plumbers are famous for that one. :mad:

We leave the cable sticking out and deal with it later. Self drilling screws hold really well in the plumbers PVC vent pipe.:grin:
 
coulter said:
36"? you sure? Bath vanities are never 36". Not even tall ones.

carl
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Many actually are 36" to countertop and it is actually much more comfortable to stand at.

I usually leave the whip in the wall and cut in box on finish. I take a picture with my cell phone with the height written on the stud just in case.

You look like a real dope if on the finish the light is not in the right location or you leave a hole where the whip was before you moved it over a few inches. You can't rely on the boarders to leave it exactly where you stub it out.

Nobody cares why it is not in the right location (ie: not on the plan, no spec etc) they only remember the electrciain screwed up. I don't let that happen.
 
electricmanscott said:
Nobody cares why it is not in the right location (ie: not on the plan, no spec etc) they only remember the electrciain screwed up. I don't let that happen.
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Exactly! We just leave it in the wall and deal with it later. Love the comment about the vent pipe:D
 
I leave the wire coiled in the wall and old work in later. I have had the problem with vent pipes, but normally the plumbers I work with actually offset the vent to not be in the center of the vanity. Go Figure! I guess my plumbers are awesome.... I think Allied Molding should make an old work pancake for these situations, maybe that is how I will make my millions.
 
infinity said:
Plumbers are famous for that one. :mad:

We leave the cable sticking out and deal with it later. Self drilling screws hold really well in the plumbers PVC vent pipe.:grin:
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Plumbers-- that's not an issue--- some electricians have a special box for that purpose. :grin:

If you can't tell the black and white object is the pipe.

47b7cf00b3127cceb144db9baea300000026100UaNmbRs1Ys
 
StreamlineGT said:
I leave the wire coiled in the wall and old work in later. I have had the problem with vent pipes, but normally the plumbers I work with actually offset the vent to not be in the center of the vanity. Go Figure! I guess my plumbers are awesome.... I think Allied Molding should make an old work pancake for these situations, maybe that is how I will make my millions.
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Exactly what I do.

DSC04439a.jpg


This way, the HO can decide long after I'm gone what & where they want the light(s). One light, two lights, three lights, whatever they want to pay me to install...
 
What I've done in the past is hole-sawed a hole in a 2x4 that will fit the vent pipe, and ask the plumbers to place it around the vent pipe while assembling their system. Attach it to the flanking studs at the right height. Install a pancake box later if you don't know the horizontal location.

If you arrive after the plumbing is done, you can do the same thing, except you have to cut the 2x4 at the hole to place the two halves around the vent. The pancake box can straddle the vent and at the same time act as a splice for the cut 2x4.

I used this method for a pair of back-to-back fixtures, and it worked great. Screws are better than nails for attaching the 2x4 if it has to be cut, to reduce flopping. If the box can't be located horizontally now, use a nail plate to rejoin the two halves of the 2x4.
 
watch those pictures

watch those pictures

480sprky,
Your pic can rekindle an old flame....is that a 12 & 14 mix in the switch box ??:grin:

by the way, 75% of the contractors in this area leave the "loops"
in the vanity wall for later trim out as you do.
 
I leave the switch leg in the wall but loop it into both bays where the vanity goes so you can reach it if center of the vanity happens to end up not where the plan shows it to be. This has saved me from cutting sheetrock more than one time after customer changes things.
 
augie47 said:
480sprky,
Your pic can rekindle an old flame....is that a 12 & 14 mix in the switch box ??:grin:
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Yes, but only the 12 went to the switch that ended up in there. So, if you're thinking about a 2-pole, it wasn't required.

iwire said:
Leaving that much scrap behind must kill you. :grin:
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It's all included in the bid....
 
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