vinyl siding blocks

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nizak

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I have 2 siding contractors I work with and they both install 1" deep vinyl mounting blocks for exterior lighting.I will stub nm out and they set the block and pull wires thru. I cut out box opening with roto zip. The 1" depth is kind of an oddball because no one makes a round box metal or plastic that is 1".Pancakes are too shallow, octagons are too deep.I know there are mounting blocks that come with the outlet box built right in, but the color selection is very limited.
I realize that mounting an actual box right through the OSB is an option and spacing out 1". With different corner profiles(wood, vinyl, etc.) I never know the precise placement as to properly centering it. Stubbing the wire works great for centering, but then I'm back to the depth issue.

I have even thought about an old work box, but then there's the issue of what if a stud is behind it.

Any suggestions appreciated.
 
Old work box in the OSB siding. Install siding & fixture block over your old work box. Then use long 8-32 screws to attach fixture to box. Don't get your fixture screws too tight or it makes the siding dip in on the fixture block.
 
nizak said:
I have 2 siding contractors I work with and they both install 1" deep vinyl mounting blocks for exterior lighting.I will stub nm out and they set the block and pull wires thru. I cut out box opening with roto zip. The 1" depth is kind of an oddball because no one makes a round box metal or plastic that is 1".Pancakes are too shallow, octagons are too deep.I know there are mounting blocks that come with the outlet box built right in, but the color selection is very limited.
I realize that mounting an actual box right through the OSB is an option and spacing out 1". With different corner profiles(wood, vinyl, etc.) I never know the precise placement as to properly centering it. Stubbing the wire works great for centering, but then I'm back to the depth issue.

I have even thought about an old work box, but then there's the issue of what if a stud is behind it.

Any suggestions appreciated.
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What kind of blocks are they using?
 
I would just use the pancake box with longer screws if needed or something to space the pancake out, 3/8 nut or something. I know the problem that some fixtures if the bracket is not flush with the surface the screws won't catch. But if the bracket rests on the siding block you should be good even if the pancake is back a half inch.
 
What about hole sawing some 4" cookies out of some scrap OSB to use as shims behind the pancake boxes? Then you'd know it'd be solid.
 
When you rough in for the 1" siding blocks just use a 4 1/8" hole saw to remove the sheathing. now you have 1 1/2"....perfect for an octagon box and no box fill worries if you feed another outlet.

If your not right next to a framing member you'll need to attach a block of wood in the wall cavity so you'll be able to mount the octagon box.

Drill a hole large enough through the added block of wood so your strain relief connector will recess into it, pull wire through, clamp it, then mount your box.

Siders can (hopefully) center their block properly.


I still don't understand why they would even manufacture the 1" deep blocks......what a PITA
 
mjf said:
When you rough in for the 1" siding blocks just use a 4 1/8" hole saw to remove the sheathing.
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A 4 1/8" hole saw would have been my suggestion as well.

I keep two in my truck all the time, one sharp one for wood and one worn one for drywall and ceiling tiles. No better way to cut perfect holes quickly and cleanly for 4" round boxes.

I also use them to make hand holes for fishing when needed as my hand and arm will fit easily and the hole can be covered with a 4" round white blank cover.
 
If they are using vinyl siding they are going the cheap route anyway. Use Arlington siding boxes- you can have box with fixture or receptacle installed before siding is even present - they just install siding around it. Often white color is not too objectionable as windows, doors, and other trims often are white, but if there is a problem tell customer it is paintable. Solid composition is not as much of a problem for paint, one reason we have shifted away from wood siding is moisture absorbency of wood effects paint life, paint on a non absorbent surface lasts much longer then on wood.
 
iwire said:
A 4 1/8" hole saw would have been my suggestion as well.

I keep two in my truck all the time, one sharp one for wood and one worn one for drywall and ceiling tiles. No better way to cut perfect holes quickly and cleanly for 4" round boxes.

I also use them to make hand holes for fishing when needed as my hand and arm will fit easily and the hole can be covered with a 4" round white blank cover.
Click to expand...

I was going to suggest a Remgrit hole saw, but I see they don't come in 4 1/8. The closest is 4 3/8. Pity, they make nice cuts and nails don't bother them.
 
Take the front of the J-block off, and install a piece of OSB behind a pancake box

That puts the front of the pancake right where you want it
 
Tell the the contractor to quit using such oddball depth j-blocks. A contractor I do work for uses 1-1/2 j-blocks for me to put a octagon box in for coach lights otherwise I use Arlington In-boxes for receptacles.
 
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