Wago connectors

[Purr24]

What's your thoughts on the Wago 221 wire connectors? I think they are much easier to use and a lot quicker to make splices. I know there a little pricy. Anyone using these connectors?

 

[tom baker]

Yes there are many users as you will see. Some like, some dislike

 

[Little Bill]

Works especially well on putting lights up while on a ladder. Clip the Wagos on either the light wires or the wires in the box. Go ahead and open the levers for the next slot. Then you can hold the light in one hand and feed the wire in the slot and close it with the other hand. No fumbling around trying to hold the light and twist on a wirenut.

 

[SSDriver]

Love them. I use them on almost everything #10 and smaller. They are my favorite way to connect any motor with #10 wire or smaller.

 

[pjones]

They are a great product. Specially good for troubleshooting controls when you need to open and close a connection multiple times. No damage to the wires when you remove the 221.

 

[AC\DC]

I switched to these, about a year ago. They are nice and fast. Though I have noticed that lately they have had a few ports that do not make good connection, and pull out very easy, debating on stop using them.

 

[ramsy]

I switched to these, about a year ago. They are nice and fast. Though I have noticed that lately they have had a few ports that do not make good connection, and pull out very easy, debating on stop using them.

There are several unlisted and untested counterfeit leverlocks, some junk, and some interesting mutations.

 

[ptonsparky]

Definitely like them. We don't have a local supplier other than the Big Box stores.

 

[kec]

I use them for fixtures as Little Bill stated. Especially for one solid 14 or 12 and the 18 gauge stranded wire which seems to come undone
as your finger rolls the wirenut when you push the wiring back into the box.

 

[kwired]

Mostly use the push in ones for solid conductors for a few years and never had a problem with any yet. Much faster and easier for EGC's in device boxes than the green wire nut type connectors. Actually the push in ones cost similar or even less than many the twist on connectors and install much quicker.

When running raceways I almost exclusively run stranded conductors for 14-10 AWG. Those are a PITA to terminate in twist on connectors and these lever nuts are fast and simple, and if you need to take a connection apart doesn't leave you with unruly strands so easily. They cost more than twist on connectors but save enough time and hassle they are worth it IMO.

 

[AC\DC]

There are several unlisted and untested counterfeit leverlocks, some junk, and some interesting mutations.

I hope mine are not fake lol. My issue only has happens on a few.
Couple of the ports on the 5 ports did not hold well. I have noticed lately a quality issue on parts.
My neutral bars on the left of my 200 amp Eaton br panels are messed up, if you torque them they won’t budge. Right side is fine. Been like that on my last 5 panels.

 

[Rick 0920]

I think they work well for the right application. Changing ballasts, individual light fixtures where the amperage on the conductors are not high. I do not use them in place of wirenuts on pigtails for multiple receptacle loads or feeds where they would see the total amperage of the circuit. I replaced several that have melted or the thin metal strip that grabs the conductor has become weakened by the heat of the current flowing through it. They are quicker, but are they worth the amount of warranty calls they may cause? I hate working for free!

 

[Purr24]

I think they work well for the right application. Changing ballasts, individual light fixtures where the amperage on the conductors are not high. I do not use them in place of wirenuts on pigtails for multiple receptacle loads or feeds where they would see the total amperage of the circuit. I replaced several that have melted or the thin metal strip that grabs the conductor has become weakened by the heat of the current flowing through it. They are quicker, but are they worth the amount of warranty calls they may cause? I hate working for free!

I use them for splicing in junction boxes for receptacles and lighting in commercial buildings never had a problem. I saw a YouTube video testing the current of these connectors and they could carry up to twice the listed current. They had 60 amps go through these connectors without damage.

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[Knuckle Dragger]

I'm not against them.
I haven't seen a failed one.
But..
I'm just not there yet.

 

[Rick 0920]

I'm not against them.
I haven't seen a failed one.
But..
I'm just not there yet.

I'm sure some older electricians in here remember when devices used to be able to be backwired (stab-in) with #12 conductors. In the late 80's or early 90's I believe they started making them so we could only backwire with a #14 conductor. The reason for this change was because the thin piece of metal that held the conductor in place tended to fail when it saw the heat from over 15 amps of current. I never use the backwire function even with #14 wire. I prefer to side-wire around the screws. That's why I don't trust Wago connectors in higher current situations.

 

[EC Dan]

I use them, but I've had to remove them from 480 V motors after another person used them there for wire splicing. They are only rated for 450 V.

 

[curt swartz]

I use them, but I've had to remove them from 480 V motors after another person used them there for wire splicing. They are only rated for 450 V.

Where are you getting the 450 volts spec? Maybe a European listing? They are UL listed for 600 volts (1000 volt fixture/signs)

 

[EC Dan]

Where are you getting the 450 volts spec? Maybe a European listing? They are UL listed for 600 volts (1000 volt fixture/signs)

null

<p>WAGO's 221 Series Splicing Connectors for all types of conductors set new standards. This new series is 40% smaller and even more user-friendly than its successful predecessor, the 222 Series.</p>

www.wago.com

Ratings up to 32 A/450 V and 105°C maximum continuous operating temperature allow the 221 Series Splicing Connectors to be used at ambient temperatures up to 85°C (T85), making them ideal for small and large loads.

The UL listing just says it will be marked with its maximum voltage rating, which may also be less than 450 V.

Edit: You may be right about the rating I was referring to being European, I see the Wago website does say listed to 600 V.

 

[EC Dan]

The ratings on these are certainly confusing. I just went out and looked at one and it definitely is only marked for 450V even with the UL label, but all the online sources say UL approved for 600 V. So I guess I didn't need to switch them out but I still prefer wire-nuts for motors, not sure how these would fair under constant vibration.

 

[sfav8r]

I use them for splicing in junction boxes for receptacles and lighting in commercial buildings never had a problem. I saw a YouTube video testing the current of these connectors and they could carry up to twice the listed current. They had 60 amps go through these connectors without damage.

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I second what Rick said. I used these extensively and loved them. But then we had several calls where they had heated up. Not always causing a fault, but they were deformed and or discolored. We switched to only using them with known loads (like light fixtures) or in areas that were difficult to reach and twist a connecter.