wagos in canlights

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CAsparky

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I use Lithonia can lights which come with wagos for connections. I used them until I heard from several electricicans that they fail and to cut them off and use wirenuts. My old boss said they did a service call where the neutrals were heating and failing due to the poor connection of the wago. I always thought wagos were inferior to wirenuts but some people claim they work fine.
Anybody else seen problems with the wagos. Do you cut them off or use them?
 
I assume that by "wago" you are referring to a push in wire connector!? Ideal makes them as well, they do not accept #12 stranded, only solid!? I have used them, I have had issues with them, but I also have used and had issues with wire nuts! I guess nothing is perfect?
 
Wago's

Wago's

Love um, love um, love um what a great thing to invent they are great for us for we do a lot of service work, and the calls we get because of them is great just money in the pocket. Keep on using them the more used the more service work they create.:grin:
 
You sure those aren't the wago impersonators?? Those things are junk. My company has switched to wagos. At first, I didn't care for them but after using them awhile you get the hang of it. Did have a apprentice leave about 1/16" of copper hang out of the bottom after pushing in the wires. Other than that, no problems. The ones we use are good for #12 stranded.
 
Wagos

Wagos

I had heard alot of bad about these a few years ago but, the company that I worked for a couple of years ago uses them by the case in the wiring of their rail road signal shacks with very few failures. The main problem we had with them was caused by lack of experience, getting in a hurry, or just plain not caring about the work. Now I feel that if they can take the vibrations and constant changes of weather that they get along side a railroad track, they'll take just about anything that we can throw at them in residental and commercial wiring. They are like a lot of other things in the industry,
you use them right, they'll work everytime, if not well that's another story.



J.S.Harvey
 
A search for "wago" turns up 18 threads, many of which are along the same lines.

I'm a pretwisting wirenut fan, myself. And twisting the wirenuts tight. I hate half-turned wirenuts. :mad:
 
georgestolz said:
A search for "wago" turns up 18 threads, many of which are along the same lines.
I'm a pretwisting wirenut fan, myself. And twisting the wirenuts tight. I hate half-turned wirenuts. :mad:
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The newer no bracket Halo recessed cans come with these connectors already installed on the wires. I have used them but I am hesitant about them. Time will tell. I feel more like George about them but I couldn't get myself to cut them off and throw them away.
 
I use them when they are already there and have not had any trouble. I'm a "better mousetrap" kind of guy. Willing to try out new new or different stuff that may make things better or easier.
 
To be perfectly honest, I do use them when they come in the recessed can. Capri's come with them installed. I did notice, however, sometimes the factory conductors fall out - I always gave them a push and a tug once I noticed this, and didn't have any problems.

When I wrote my last reply, I got into searching for other threads and forgot the topic was about using them in recessed cans, for which I apologize.
redface.gif
 
electricmanscott said:
All recessed can j boxes are accessible from below the ceiling. No attic required.
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I remember figuring this out years ago. I had always wondered how the J-boxes could be enclosed by the ceiling, and why the J-box had two opening covers. :-?

I just didn't get the connection, until I noticed that the can attached to the bracket with screws. Then it hit me. Duh! :rolleyes: At least I was still a helper.
 
I like the progress cans just a simple wing nut in the can on a long keyhole slot.No need for a stubby to get 3 screws out.As far as the push in connectors, they work fine as long as the installer checks the connection by tugging on the can wires.Those are the ones that always seem to come out.Always seems to be after the final clean and I have to take the bell out and get a shower of blown in insulation.
 
I use Wagos all the time with great results. Between these and my Bosch lithium driver, carpal tunnel is virtually elimimated. And besides, you can get a Wago that will accept 8 conductors, great for a 3 or 4 gang switch box EGC's.....
 
CAsparky said:
I use Lithonia can lights which come with wagos for connections. I used them until I heard from several electricicans that they fail and to cut them off and use wirenuts. My old boss said they did a service call where the neutrals were heating and failing due to the poor connection of the wago. I always thought wagos were inferior to wirenuts but some people claim they work fine.
Anybody else seen problems with the wagos. Do you cut them off or use them?
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Wego's or Push-in connectors should only be used for Control/Signaling curcuits ONLY. Period. They are very risky for and branch curcuit with a load. The problem usually is with grounded wires. The spring clip may become warped from use and allow wire to pop-out. Yes I said Pop-Out. If this happens in a fixture with j-box end of light next to a wooden rafter , let's just say that smoke inhalation is just the lest of your worries.

Remember as an Electrical Contractor you are not only legally responsible UNTIL YOUR DEATH, but your heirs also.
 
maintain said:
Wego's or Push-in connectors should only be used for Control/Signaling curcuits ONLY. Period.

.
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Where did you get this from? They are UL listed for the same use as wirenuts are. The mfgr says nothing about control/signal circuits only.
 
maintain said:
The problem usually is with grounded wires.
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There is no electrical reason that a grounded conductor should have any greater issues than an ungrounded conductor.
 
LarryFine said:
There is no electrical reason that a grounded conductor should have any greater issues than an ungrounded conductor.
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I agree with you here Larry as far as no greater issues between grounded and ungrounded wiring. In response to termination integrity of poke-homes, back-stabs, Wagos, there seems to be a difficulty in accepting any of these by the UL and NEC in the use of 12 awg terminations in switch and receptacle back-stabs.

1. Could someone bring me up to date why Wagos would be any safer with connecting 12?
2. Are Wagos allowed in a 240 vac 20 amp 12 awg connected circuits?

I have seen more back stabs fail than wire nuts.
IMO they take up too much small box fill and are still unsafe junk.
 
Thanks for the responses. I think ill stick to wirenuts. I just dont trust the wagos. Put one conductor in a wago and see how easily the wago spins around the wire. I just dont see the two metal clips inside the wago being a solid connection. My old boss did a service job where the cans were installed with the factory wagos. He said the majority of the neutrals got hot and failed due to the wago. So he was paid to rewire all the lights with wirenuts.
 
Push Ins

Push Ins

Have been using them for a couple of years now (since my carpal tunnel surgeries) and have not experienced any more problems than what you might have with wirenuts.
I think that this is just a case of wives tales and people being afraid of new technology.
Remember when MC was the end of electrical work as we knew it?
 
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