Walk in Cooler

[Therealcrt]

Has anyone ever wired a walk in cooler that the door is not accessible through the kitchen? This walk in cooler is being installed 18” away from the building it serves so how would the best way to route necessary power from the building to the cooler and what requirements does it need?

 

[hbiss]

I'm assuming that this is a packaged unit with the refrigeration unit on the top. The power requirements should be listed on it and in the installation instructions. Usually just single phase or three phase. With only 18" from the building, I would either go from the building to the unit with EMT or treat it like an A/C outdoor unit with sealtite. Disconnect on top and don't forget the 120V service receptacle which can be anywhere within 25' of the box.

-Hal

 

[kwired]

18" span between two structures isn't normally a problem. If you feel EMT is too vulnerable to damage then run RMC or IMC for that span.

A reason I would do that is if there is good risk of snow/ice falling from the main building roof and taking out the span. Though IMO this should have been a concern for placement foam cooler with aluminum cladding as well if that happens to be what they have.

 

[Therealcrt]

I'm assuming that this is a packaged unit with the refrigeration unit on the top. The power requirements should be listed on it and in the installation instructions. Usually just single phase or three phase. With only 18" from the building, I would either go from the building to the unit with EMT or treat it like an A/C outdoor unit with sealtite. Disconnect on top and don't forget the 120V service receptacle which can be anywhere within 25' of the box.

-Hal

How do I penetrate inside of the cooler though to get to the door heat and the lights

 

[augie47]

Most of the ones I've seen simply have EMT penetrations with sealant to prevent air flow

 

[Strathead]

18" span between two structures isn't normally a problem. If you feel EMT is too vulnerable to damage then run RMC or IMC for that span.

A reason I would do that is if there is good risk of snow/ice falling from the main building roof and taking out the span. Though IMO this should have been a concern for placement foam cooler with aluminum cladding as well if that happens to be what they have.

but you definitely want flex in between for expansion and movement.

 

[Strathead]

How do I penetrate inside of the cooler though to get to the door heat and the lights

With a drill if it doesn't have a connection point. I would expect an free standing exterior one to have a connection point. If not, I would probably drop down the side and LB in. Don't' forget that you need to seal the interior of any conduits that go in to the cooler.

 

[kwired]

but you definitely want flex in between for expansion and movement.

How much movement are you expecting? Thermal expansion probably not going to be enough to matter much for OP and may need some pretty precise equipment to measure whatever it is.

 

[kwired]

With a drill if it doesn't have a connection point. I would expect an free standing exterior one to have a connection point. If not, I would probably drop down the side and LB in. Don't' forget that you need to seal the interior of any conduits that go in to the cooler.

I can't recall ever having a place to terminate a conduit on the exterior for door frame heaters or other pre-enclosed components on these units. Usually a junction box on the interior that may even serve as the light outlet box on the interior of the unit. Always have had to drill my own hole for wherever I want to enter the cooler. If not a through the ceiling mounted cooling unit, usually had to drill additional holes to enter with evaporator, defrost, control thermostat wiring as well.

 

[Little Bill]

The one I did had factory KO in the roof/ceiling. However, this was inside a building. I don't know if the unit was just for inside, or it could go outside. I can't imagine an outside unit where a field made roof penetration might cause a leak from rain, or snow.

 

[kwired]

In last 15-20 years around here, if it is outdoors it usually gets a white cover put on it. Not sure exactly what kind of material it is made of. Kind of a heavy tarp is the best description I can give. Otherwise I think they are mostly same construction whether indoors or outdoors, foam panels with aluminum cladding for the most part. Maybe some reinforcement inside where deemed necessary. Particularly when a refrigeration unit will need to be supported on top of the unit.

 

[hbiss]

How do I penetrate inside of the cooler though to get to the door heat and the lights

So, this isn't a packaged unit. All that would be done at the factory if it was.

You wouldn't happen to have a manufacturer and model number so I could look at the installation instructions?

-Hal