walk way lighting

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hockeyoligist2

hockeyoligist2

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close to greenville sc
We have a walkway with 6 lights 120v. They are in waterproof cans, outside (no ventilation) the bulbs last about 3 weeks. they are over heating, besides going to a low voltage system, is there a bulb that can take it? I tried low watt floresent 60 watt, 40 watt incandesent, it only needs to outline the walkway.
 
Have used thousands of PEPI bitmetallic sensors. What they do is cure them, when they come out of the oven the various batches are marked with their temperature. Once they are dropped or hit, you can't tell what results they'll have. Once they open due to overheat, you can't tell what temperature they'll open at next - but normally far below the original. It's very easy for a stockroom to drop a box of them, not say anything, and WHAM the company sends out defective product.

As Larry says, find a CFL which will produce the minimum heat. If those don't work, you'll need to call the company for replacement doggone sensors. Who probably has 20 dozen other customers with the same complaint (but who's to know?)
 
Excuse me for not being clearer, I considered that it was plain we were discussing recessed fixtures. I'd expect, in addition, that since the words 'waterproof' and 'no ventilation' were being used, that IC rated fixtures were involved. That's a pretty safe assumption from what you said. They're required here since last November by energy code.

If the customer is experiencing repeated failures in IC fixtures, there is a chance that what is happening is not hot bulbs. In fact, it sounds as if a couple different bulbs have been tried without success. The other most likely failure mechanisms would then be corrosion in the socket/ switch, bad connection(s), or thermal overheat sensor(s). Any of these would present a light bulb with an arcing fault and 'certain' destruction.

IC-rated fixtures have been required to have thermal sensors in them since 1982. Among the possible causes of failure, sensors cannot be excluded. It is possible that the customer overheated the fixtures once. In which case, the sensor starts opening at 194 degrees and protects things. The next time it is heated it will open at, say, 160 degrees. After three or four activations we're in the 120 degree range. The contacts in those sensors are now pitted and hence the arcing fault I mentioned.

The other thing which happens with sensors is rough handling. To put it plainly, if they get hit they get damaged. They must be treated the same as light bulbs. The people who make them will not consider damage due to handling a warranty item.

Sorry for that, I hope this is clearer. Please re-write and re-post what I've tried to explain so that it makes more sense.
 
Still not sure I understand.

Are you saying bad thermal protectors are causing lamp failure?

The way I read the problem is they put in a new lamp and 3 weeks later the lamp needs to be replaced again.
 
IF

there was an overheat once, the thermal sensor opened. They're basically one time devices. After that they open at much lower temperatures. As they open, it's a gradual thing (not like a circuit breaker.) Their contacts pit and present a spark in the line, to the bulb. Not trying to be verbose, just sharing my experiences with the things.
 
peteo said:
IF

there was an overheat once, the thermal sensor opened. They're basically one time devices. After that they open at much lower temperatures. As they open, it's a gradual thing (not like a circuit breaker.) Their contacts pit and present a spark in the line, to the bulb. Not trying to be verbose, just sharing my experiences with the things.
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I'm not sure we are on the same page.... no offense, OK?

These lights are just straight up 120v in waterproof cans, since they are outside. The cans are listed for installing in concrete if that makes any difference? We changed them out about Jan. because they were leaking and blowing bulbs when it rained and water would drip on the hot bulb. (we replaced weekly then)

There is no corrosion, leaks, etc. (new stuff) I gave one of the fluorescent to the salesman and he is going to send it to GE and make sure that it is an overheating problem. But it is obvious because the bottom of the "coil" is kinda melting the plastic. They are screw side down so that should help dissipate heat...........heat rises? :)

Thanks for all the help folks!
 
no offense, OK?
None taken at all. We tend to question things on this forum, so I don't feel the need to apologize for bringing up what I did. Glad that you're following through with failure analysis, and it would be interesting to hear the outcome.
I'll try to send a smiley here - :rolleyes:
 
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Are these lamps going out basically at the same time and are the same ones going out and others have not needed replacement. I would suggest looking at a loose connection in the circuit or at the fixture. If the whole line is giving you this problem the connection may be at the panel. I like to use nolox in my wire connections in an outdoor installation to keep the connection good for years and also for ease when replacing or troubleshooting.
 
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