Wall plate size preference

[LarryFine]

Whenever the cutout is bad I get the builder to bring the sheetrockers back and do the job right.

Last time I was on a job that needed patching, the drywall guy said he would patch after I put the plates on.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

Last time I was on a job that needed patching, the drywall guy said he would patch after I put the plates on.

I bet that never got done. My inspection so I want it done so I can finish and send a bill

 

[kwired]

It's the drywallers job to make a clean cut or to mud in up to the sides. Code only allows 1/8" but I am sure you know that

Whenever the cutout is bad I get the builder to bring the sheetrockers back and do the job right.

I hear you, and on new construction I mostly feel it is drywallers job to get the cutout right or repair it if it isn't.

When cutting into existing finishes sometimes you need to either fix yourself or get someone else to do it. No matter how good you are with drywall there is times where you maybe end up hitting stud or other blocking and end up with something that needs patching or maybe plaster that ended up breaking out on you. There are times where the gap can be filled to comply with the 1/8" but you still might cover it with an oversized plate just so you don't have to come back and texture/paint to make it look better. You might even just fill it with caulk in those cases instead of drywall compound.

 

[PaulMmn]

I like the mid-sized nylon (flexible). No cracks because a screw is not loose!
.
Larger plates have an advantage in a hallway or other high-traffic areas-- they help keep grubby fingerprints off of the wallpaper!

 

[JohnE]

I prefer the mulberry metal square edged painted small sized plates. (as opposed to the rounded edge ones that look goofy to me) That is all we used here in the 80' and early '90's. Then we went plastic. In mid 2000's I went back to the metal ones, but it was difficult to keep them stocked as I was the only one buying them. So I use the small hard plastic Leviton these days. The nylon ones bend too much, but i'll use those too. Page 65 here: https://mulberrymetal.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/mulberry_general_catalog_2021.pdf

 

[letgomywago]

I prefer the mulberry metal square edged painted small sized plates. (as opposed to the rounded edge ones that look goofy to me) That is all we used here in the 80' and early '90's. Then we went plastic. In mid 2000's I went back to the metal ones, but it was difficult to keep them stocked as I was the only one buying them. So I use the small hard plastic Leviton these days. The nylon ones bend too much, but i'll use those too. Page 65 here: https://mulberrymetal.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/mulberry_general_catalog_2021.pdf

So for nylon leviton has the most bendy one it seams like. Eaton has a bit thicker one and it's beefier at the screw. P and S has a different shape and style to theirs. I like it the most.

 

[Fred B]

I prefer the standard P&S, a little heavier build. If forced to get from big box all you're getting is mid and jumbo. With the continuing supply issues sometimes forced into taking what you can get.
Either way try to get all the same size within a room, try to coordinate switch and receptacles sizes.
Decora style everything helps alot in limiting stocking for a job.

 

[norcal]

I always heard jumbo size plates called goof plates.

-halis

I call them something else but the Industrial English is not suitable for this and most other forums. Midway come under the same category, someone screwed up.

 

[FionaZuppa]

So for nylon leviton has the most bendy one it seams like. Eaton has a bit thicker one and it's beefier at the screw. P and S has a different shape and style to theirs. I like it the most.

Eaton for sure has ribbing in all the right areas.
It's all Eaton/Cooper plastic around me for resi. New work is always std size.

 

[AC\DC]

Flex plates look good if the wall is finished correctly and your device sits properly. I can't tell a difference. Plus I can't break these in my messy truck

 

[junkhound]

standard lowest price unless HO want some specialty plates (e.g round, flags, sports logos, etc)

IIRC one study showed the large plates in cold climates cost $1.10 per year in heating costs per outlet heat loss. Standard size with foam pad loss of only 5 cents per year.

poll:? how many folks automatically add the foam pads on exterior walls?

 

[kwired]

standard lowest price unless HO want some specialty plates (e.g round, flags, sports logos, etc)

IIRC one study showed the large plates in cold climates cost $1.10 per year in heating costs per outlet heat loss. Standard size with foam pad loss of only 5 cents per year.

poll:? how many folks automatically add the foam pads on exterior walls?

On most newer construction they are flash foaming the exterior side of the wall cavity and filling holes made through top and bottom plates for wiring, plumbing, etc. I don't see the real need to use a foam pad if that had been done. Ceiling penetrations are likely losing more heat anyway.

 

[FionaZuppa]

standard lowest price unless HO want some specialty plates (e.g round, flags, sports logos, etc)

IIRC one study showed the large plates in cold climates cost $1.10 per year in heating costs per outlet heat loss. Standard size with foam pad loss of only 5 cents per year.

poll:? how many folks automatically add the foam pads on exterior walls?

Around by me, new construction stuff done in past 20yrs or so uses blown in insulation which packs in tight.
But, foam pads are an easy upsell.