water heater replacement

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I recently replaced a 20-year-old electric water heater with a brand new Reliance model, and the Reliance installation instructions specify a double pole 30 amp breaker. The replaced model was hard wired with a double pole 40 amp breaker and 8 gauge wires coming from the breaker. Should I replace the existing 40 amp breaker with a 30 amp breaker?
 
You should. The 40a breaker will continue to protect the circuit wiring, but the 30a breaker is needed to protect the water heater's internal wiring.
 
You should. The 40a breaker will continue to protect the circuit wiring, but the 30a breaker is needed to protect the water heater's internal wiring.
Agreed. And, if the circuit breaker is not within 50' or within sight you'll need a local disconnect means.
 
I have never seen a 40 amp water heater. Is this in a residence or did someone not know what they were doing. My guess is they took the 4500 watt element and multiplied by 2 then divided by 240.... Hence the #8 and 40 amp breaker...

I wonder whether the old heater had the dp T-stat taken out and rewired so both elements could come on together
 
I have never seen a 40 amp water heater. Is this in a residence or did someone not know what they were doing. My guess is they took the 4500 watt element and multiplied by 2 then divided by 240.... Hence the #8 and 40 amp breaker...

I wonder whether the old heater had the dp T-stat taken out and rewired so both elements could come on together
I think your first assumption is the more correct one. Why would a person wire both heating elements so that they come on at the same time ? To shorten the recovery time AND void the manufacturer's listing ? I don't think anyone of us would risk that. Had to be a HO job IMHO.
 
I think your first assumption is the more correct one. Why would a person wire both heating elements so that they come on at the same time ? To shorten the recovery time AND void the manufacturer's listing ? I don't think anyone of us would risk that. Had to be a HO job IMHO.

We had a job where the customer couldn't get enough hot water. The panel was on the other side of the house and getting a circuit would have cost thousands of dollars-- slab, plantings, stone walkways etc.


They already had the heaters plumbed in series so I just replaced the bottom T-stat of one water heater and put a dpst stat. I did have to add another wire in the heater... but it worked like a charm. except I did do a no-no. Used the same circuit for both heaters and 4500 watts would be the most that would come on at the same time
 
I think your first assumption is the more correct one. Why would a person wire both heating elements so that they come on at the same time ? To shorten the recovery time AND void the manufacturer's listing ? I don't think anyone of us would risk that. Had to be a HO job IMHO.
I remember doing exactly that many years ago - except we ran an individual branch circuit for each element and rewired the WH so upper and lower elements were independent of one another. This was in a cheese manufacturing plant, the water heater supplied a machine that washed the "rags" used in part of the process, and they were washed and reused every "batch". Problem was the WH did not recover fast enough between batches until we rewired it this way. Voiding listing or warranty was not a concern to the owner, domestic water heaters cost nothing compared to most other equipment that was in use in this process. though I still could never figure out why they didn't use the readily available steam in that plant to heat the water for this particular part of the operation.

I think we also replaced the standard 4500 watt elements with 6000 watt elements. You don't easily find stocked water heater with anything other then 4500 watt elements or, 1500 if 120 volt, but there are all sorts of replacement wattages available, maybe not at your typical hardware store or big box store though.
 
We've done all sorts of things to water heaters. Including using the thermostat to call for heat from a remote Apollo conversion. Does any body remember when they came out? I think they were the first on demand water heater. We made them heat the house via a radiator in the furnace and to heat the house water. They went away for some reason. Maybe they couldn't heat it fast enough.
 
I think your first assumption is the more correct one. Why would a person wire both heating elements so that they come on at the same time ? To shorten the recovery time AND void the manufacturer's listing ? I don't think anyone of us would risk that. Had to be a HO job IMHO.

People do the weirdest things it wouldn't surprise me if the water heater was wired that way. I ran across a toilet yesterday that was plumbed off the hot water line, so every time they flush the toilet three and a half gallons of hot water went down the drain . go figure
 
People do the weirdest things it wouldn't surprise me if the water heater was wired that way. I ran across a toilet yesterday that was plumbed off the hot water line, so every time they flush the toilet three and a half gallons of hot water went down the drain . go figure

I think think the same guy prolly plumbed half the showers at the college I used to work at in VA, they had hot and cold backwards.
 
I think think the same guy prolly plumbed half the showers at the college I used to work at in VA, they had hot and cold backwards.

LOL. No I think every plumber has worked on this it went from PVC to galvanized iron 2 swage copper back to PVC there was even some Qest piping in the place. It's a ugliest mess of Plumbing I think I've ever seen.
 
People do the weirdest things it wouldn't surprise me if the water heater was wired that way. I ran across a toilet yesterday that was plumbed off the hot water line, so every time they flush the toilet three and a half gallons of hot water went down the drain . go figure
That actually isn't always that bad of a thing, when toilet sees a lot of use on hot humid days, the tank and/or water pipe won't "sweat". New toilets are only supposed to use one gallon per flush as well.
 
I have never seen a 40 amp water heater. Is this in a residence or did someone not know what they were doing. My guess is they took the 4500 watt element and multiplied by 2 then divided by 240.... Hence the #8 and 40 amp breaker...

I wonder whether the old heater had the dp T-stat taken out and rewired so both elements could come on together


I think your first assumption is the more correct one. Why would a person wire both heating elements so that they come on at the same time ? To shorten the recovery time AND void the manufacturer's listing ? I don't think anyone of us would risk that. Had to be a HO job IMHO.

Maybe not for residential, but for commercial units, it is common to specify an option for simultaneous heating of both elements, and the manufacturers will provide it that way. It does give a faster recovery time for places like commercial kitchens.

9000 watts is also somewhat common.
 
Maybe not for residential, but for commercial units, it is common to specify an option for simultaneous heating of both elements, and the manufacturers will provide it that way. It does give a faster recovery time for places like commercial kitchens.

9000 watts is also somewhat common.


Yeah I know commercially they can be 3 phase and a 100 amps but I was talking residential heaters as this is what it appears to be but I doubt the op is coming back.
 
At the college I worked at in VA, I swear I must have replaced about 40 or more of them when I worked there.

It was especially fun doing it when it was the 3rd or 4th floor and no elevator.
How about replacing a 100 HP motor that is about 50 feet from grade level, but inside an enclosed industrial structure so you can't just pull a crane up nearby to do the lifting?

Luckily we did have a hoist on the same level as the 100 HP motor, but still had to find a way to dolly the thing over to where it goes, as well as remove the old one. There is a 40 HP motor next level up, but hoist doesn't get us to that level, hope never have to change that one.
 
I think think the same guy prolly plumbed half the showers at the college I used to work at in VA, they had hot and cold backwards.
One of my neighbors did some DIY plumbing and put the shower valve in backwards. He had to cut into the wall to reverse the pipe connections.
Then one of his more experienced friends asked him why he didn't just insert an Allen wrench down the valve stem and rotate the core 180 degrees. :(

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You should. The 40a breaker will continue to protect the circuit wiring, but the 30a breaker is needed to protect the water heater's internal wiring.

I politely challenge this. To my knowledge there is nothing in any standard that requires and external OCPD to protect internal appliance wiring.
 
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