water proof low voltage connections

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Dennis Alwon

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Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
To me this is the most important part of LV. I get so many call backs it is silly. Lately I have been using a plymouth splice kit with a basic stakon. The splice kit can be used for numerous splices and the joint is as good as it gets.

Kim lighting makes a great splice kit but they are $14 each. That is a bit pricey, IMO.

These are nice but pricey

Gardner_Bender_HSB-28_Butt_Splice_Kit.jpg
 
To me this is the most important part of LV. I get so many call backs it is silly. Lately I have been using a plymouth splice kit with a basic stakon. The splice kit can be used for numerous splices and the joint is as good as it gets.

Dennis, do you have a part number for the plymouth kit?

I agree that this is the most important part of the installation. What do you think of the King Dry Conn's? I wasn't particularly impressed in the past, but they seem to be one of the more reasonably priced alternatives.
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
It is a plymouth 02635. I think I paid $14 for the kit but you can cut the rubber and use it for multiple apps. I got it from CES (City Electric Supply)

PLYMTHC00002_7_PE_001.jpg
 

busman

Senior Member
Location
Northern Virginia
Occupation
Master Electrician / Electrical Engineer
I never really worry about keeping the connections dry. Or at least not any more dry than those cheap cable piercing connections that come with the fixtures. I cut the feed cable at each light and connect both cable ends with the fixture tails using a Buchanan crimp and a splice cap and then tape that up.

The all copper crimp and wires seem to make a good long term connection.

Mark
 

Fulthrotl

~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
I never really worry about keeping the connections dry. Or at least not any more dry than those cheap cable piercing connections that come with the fixtures. I cut the feed cable at each light and connect both cable ends with the fixture tails using a Buchanan crimp and a splice cap and then tape that up.

The all copper crimp and wires seem to make a good long term connection.

Mark

indeed... piercing saddle taps suck. what i've seen that seems to work well, but
makes splitting the connection later difficult, is making up with a wirenut, taping
the wires together above the wirenut so it doesn't get pulled on, and dipping the
wirenut in scotchcote, leaving it upside down to dry full of sealer...

edit: best done AFTER everything is in and tested....
 

renosteinke

Senior Member
Location
NE Arkansas
Ordinary wire nuts. If direct buried, stick each one into a Scotch epoxy-pack. If in a handhole, just dip each completed connection in Scotch-Kote.
 
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