Well pump bad?

KVA

Senior Member
Location
United States
Today I had to troubleshoot a house having no water. It's a 2 wire 240v pump I replaced the pressure switch and the fuse in the disconnect blew 3 times. I went out to the well head and redid the splices that were severly corroded by upside down wirenuts full of water. I did a continuity test from the both hot legs from the pump to the cast iron well pipe and had continuity on both legs.

Bad pump right?
 

Hv&Lv

Senior Member
Location
-
Occupation
Engineer/Technician
Today I had to troubleshoot a house having no water. It's a 2 wire 240v pump I replaced the pressure switch and the fuse in the disconnect blew 3 times. I went out to the well head and redid the splices that were severly corroded by upside down wirenuts full of water. I did a continuity test from the both hot legs from the pump to the cast iron well pipe and had continuity on both legs.

Bad pump right?
Could be a good pump, but a bad impeller. Check the amps at the well head.
look here:http://www.plumbingpro.org/HTM Pages/well_pumps.htm
 
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KVA

Senior Member
Location
United States
I'll be honest I haven't worked much on well pump wiring.

There is a time delay 15 amp fused disconnect that is only 2 wires a hot and neutral 120v. That goes directly to the pressure switch the black and white on the outer terminals and #10 red and black on the inside terminal. What is weird to me is that the load side of the pressure switch has the #10s red and black like the pump is 240 but it has the neutral from the disconnect connected to one line terminal on the pressure switch?

It's weird it worked that way for years. How can you get 240v from a pressure switch with only 120v feeding it? There is a black,white,red,green #10 on the load side but the white is not connected anywhere.

Strange to me.
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
Today I had to troubleshoot a house having no water. It's a 2 wire 240v pump I replaced the pressure switch and the fuse in the disconnect blew 3 times. I went out to the well head and redid the splices that were severly corroded by upside down wirenuts full of water. I did a continuity test from the both hot legs from the pump to the cast iron well pipe and had continuity on both legs.

Bad pump right?
Second thoughts, without knowing what pump is installed, your going to have to pull it out of the well, then you can do the proper ohm tests for that specific pump. But, generally speaking, inside the control box is usually the ohm readings you need to test for.
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
I'll be honest I haven't worked much on well pump wiring.

There is a time delay 15 amp fused disconnect that is only 2 wires a hot and neutral 120v. That goes directly to the pressure switch the black and white on the outer terminals and #10 red and black on the inside terminal. What is weird to me is that the load side of the pressure switch has the #10s red and black like the pump is 240 but it has the neutral from the disconnect connected to one line terminal on the pressure switch?

It's weird it worked that way for years. How can you get 240v from a pressure switch with only 120v feeding it? There is a black,white,red,green #10 on the load side but the white is not connected anywhere.

Strange to me.

Are you sure the white wire in the disconnect is actually a neutral? what voltage reading did you measure? Im betting that white isn't a neutral at all...
 

KVA

Senior Member
Location
United States
Second thoughts, without knowing what pump is installed, your going to have to pull it out of the well, then you can do the proper ohm tests for that specific pump. But, generally speaking, inside the control box is usually the ohm readings you need to test for.
There isn't a control box it's wired directly from a 15 amp 120v time delay fused disconnect. Neutral wire goes to outside terminal on pressure switch the hot to the other outside terminal. The red and black #10s on the inside load terminals out to the well.

The #10 neutral wire that goes to the well was never connected.

So 2 hots are going to the pump but 120v is feeding the pressure switch???
 

ceb58

Senior Member
Location
Raeford, NC
Funny, I always just check for power and leave, not like I'm going to waste my time pulling a pump anyway, so I leave it for the plumber....
Never walked away from good money. Bad thing here is now you must have a certificate to break the well seal and disinfect the well after replacing the pump.
 

KVA

Senior Member
Location
United States
Are you sure the white wire in the disconnect is actually a neutral? what voltage reading did you measure? Im betting that white isn't a neutral at all...
I got 120v when i disconnected the white and black from the line side of the pressure switch. So 120v was connected to the pressure switch with a red and black on the load side out to the well without a neutral.
 

dpeter

Member
First thought is that the problem is down the well and that pump is coming out anyway, maybe bare wire or bad pump. Second thought is that wire color does not always dictate voltage (beware).
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
I got 120v when i disconnected the white and black from the line side of the pressure switch. So 120v was connected to the pressure switch with a red and black on the load side out to the well without a neutral.
So basically you're telling us they used "red" instead of "white" for the neutral going out to the pump? :)

One more question, how do you know this is a 240v pump?
 
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KVA

Senior Member
Location
United States
So basically you're telling us they used "red" instead of "white" for the neutral going out to the pump? :)

One more question, how do you know this is a 240v pump?
All i did was replace the pressure switch and wired it exactly the way it was before and the fuse kept blowing.
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
So you put neutral wires on a pressure switch? I always thought they get spliced through. So basically the pressure switch is switching the hot and neutral?
Im only going by what you're telling me, I can only guess.... if they truly ran the neutral to the pressure switch, then yeah, it got switched along with the hot leg...
 
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Trace your "neutral" white wire back to it's source. Maybe you'r 110 volt reading is supposed to be 220. I've never seen a set-up like your describing. Any pressure switch I've ever seen was either 110 in 110 out or 220 in 220 out. But, keep in mind, I don't have extensive well pump experience.
 

ActionDave

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Durango, CO, 10 h 20 min without traffic from wing
Occupation
wire pulling grunt
I'll be honest I haven't worked much on well pump wiring.

There is a time delay 15 amp fused disconnect that is only 2 wires a hot and neutral 120v. That goes directly to the pressure switch the black and white on the outer terminals and #10 red and black on the inside terminal. What is weird to me is that the load side of the pressure switch has the #10s red and black like the pump is 240 but it has the neutral from the disconnect connected to one line terminal on the pressure switch?

How can you get 240v from a pressure switch with only 120v feeding it? There is a black,white,red,green #10 on the load side but the white is not connected anywhere.

Strange to me.
What is feeding the fused disconnect? What is the voltage at the line side of the disconnect. I think you have a 240V pump. Just because the wire is white it does not mean it is a neutral.
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
Trace your "neutral" white wire back to it's source. Maybe you'r 110 volt reading is supposed to be 220. I've never seen a set-up like your describing. Any pressure switch I've ever seen was either 110 in 110 out or 220 in 220 out. But, keep in mind, I don't have extensive well pump experience.
I think what the OP is describing is a two wire 115v source feeding the pressure switch, with a three wire (white capped off) going to the pump... thats what I'm reading anyway...
 
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