Well pump issue

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mark32

mark32

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Currently in NJ
Hey Guy's,

A customer just reported that his well pump shuts off periodically. To get it running again, he turns the breaker off, then on, then taps the water pipe next to the pressure switch. I've never worked with a well pump circuit before, but I assume the pressure switch needs to be replaced, but I wanted to run it past you guys first. IMG_3676.jpgIMG_3677.jpg
 
Twice in the past I have removed my pressure switch thinking it was bad, and found that the small pipe that connects the switch to main water line was plugged solid with gunk. The pressure switch was fine. It just was not seeing the pressure change. All I ended up doing was cleaning that pipe nipple out. One other time I had a bad bladder in the pressure tank and the pump would short cycle Off & On.
 
RCC1 said:
Twice in the past I have removed my pressure switch thinking it was bad, and found that the small pipe that connects the switch to main water line was plugged solid with gunk. The pressure switch was fine. It just was not seeing the pressure change. All I ended up doing was cleaning that pipe nipple out. One other time I had a bad bladder in the pressure tank and the pump would short cycle Off & On.
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If it is galvanized, it is very likely corroded. I use brass nipples to help prevent that.
 
hillbilly1 said:
If it is galvanized, it is very likely corroded. I use brass nipples to help prevent that.
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It's hard to tell from that first pic, but the nipple from the manifold up to the pressure switch sure does not look like brass to me. It should be. Like Hillbilly says, it will clog up real good if it's galvanized. See if a magnet sticks to it.

If you do end up replacing the nipple and/or the switch, you'll end up emptying the pressure tank. That's a good time to check the charge on the tank's bladder. When empty, it should be ~2 psi lower than the cut-in pressure. Typical cut-in / cut-out pressures are 30/50, and sometimes 40/60 (what my well runs at). So if the pressure switch is set to 30/50, you want the tank charged to 28 psi (30-2=28).

I mention this only because you might want to eyeball the cut-in pressure (watching the gauge and listening for the contacts to close) before you empty the tank.

You need a good air pressure gauge to check the charge, using the Schrader valve up top. Not a cheap pencil type. And you can really only adjust and check it properly when the tank is not pressurized with water.

Good luck.
 
Has he tried tapping the water line without cycling the breaker? I’d bet the breaker cycle is irrelevant.

Agree with all above suggestions.
 
The points in the pressure switch have probably arced so many times that they are no longer making good contact. As ptonsparky mentioned the points can be cleaned or filed, but that is a very temporary fix. Switch needs to be replaced. Don't cheap out and get a no name switch, Square D only. Their quality has gone down in recent years, but they're still better than any other brand on the market. Inspect the pipe nipple for buildup of minerals or rust. Yes, a copper nipple is preferable.

Is the pressure tank a galvanized one with an air volume control, or is it a precharged tank. Makes a difference in what to check. Good chance the Points are burnt because the pump has been short cycling, because of the pressure tank. Time how long the pump runs from low psi start to high psi stop. Should be at least 1 minute. Then turn a faucet on full and time how long until the pump turns back on. Should also be at least one minute. If cycle times are less than that, there is also a pressure tank problem thst needs to be addressed. These cycle times are only for 1/2 to 1 1/2 hp submersible pumps. Consult the Franklin Electric AIM manual for more information.

AIM Manual | Franklin AIM Manual| Franklin Electric

franklinaim.com franklinaim.com
 
Great stuff guys, I really appreciate it 👍

Using everyone's suggestions, I was going to reply here with a summarized list of how I planned on swapping this pressure switch out with another, but I didn't have time to write, so I just bought the switch and some Teflon tape at the local supply house and headed over to my customer's place. Once on site, I first looked at the contacts, they looked good. I was about to drain the tank, but decided to check the voltage first at the switch. Across the line terminals I read nothing, hmm, the breaker must be off, but it wasn't, hmm. Back at the switch I was getting 120v to ground from each of the line terminals, but again, zero across the two. I took the panel cover off and once more, there was no reading across the breaker terminals. I pulled the breaker and behold, one of the tabs on the QO breaker was discolored and unhealthy looking, obviously it must have been arcing, the bus tab at this location was in the same condition. The owner had a spare breaker, so I hooked it up (In a different spot in the panel) and we were up and running!! The breaker being the culprit was the last thing on my mind, I'm just glad I checked for voltage before I tore it all apart :)
 
Ahhh, the 'lectric stuff wasn't going through the black thingy..
I wasn't going to suggest checking that..
(That buss is probably a gonner)
 
LarryFine said:
A proper troubleshooting should be performed before buying any parts.
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I'll correct that a little, "before replacing any parts"!
I say this because sometimes it's a long way back to a supply house or Big Box. So I try to buy/bring everything that might be needed so I don't have to make a long trip back to get something.
 
Little Bill said:
I'll correct that a little, "before replacing any parts"!
I say this because sometimes it's a long way back to a supply house or Big Box. So I try to buy/bring everything that might be needed so I don't have to make a long trip back to get something.
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Right! I always try to foresee what I'll need for a job and bring it with me, I hate running out to the supply house once I'm on-site. In this case, it was almost 5 o'clock, so I had to get the parts before the supply house closed for the day. Aside from that, they had been without water since the night before, so I felt like I needed to help them out despite the fact I wanted to go home and enjoy the nice weather we were having here in NJ :)
 
Jarnipman said:
The way that well setup looked, the breaker would be the last thing on my mind too
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😆😆 Yeah, there's a junction box on the wall (Line side of the pressure switch) along with some enclosure that is fed from the load side of the ps, and both were sloppily put together. Like, giant Grey wire nuts for two 12's and the grounds twisted together like a child did it.
 
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