where is "where necessary"

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-marty

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I've been asked to wire a log cabin that is finished.

Normally I wire as the logs go together.

There is no inspection - doesn't mean no code.

HO wants surface romex. He will hide with chinking. (Like silicone caulk.)

Question 1 - Didn't the code at one time say romex over 7' didn't need protection.

Question 2 - Art 334.15 (B) says that romex must be protected where necessary. So, where is "where necessary".

I'm not looking for a loop hole in the code. I wire with the code as a minimum.

Thanks for your consideration!
 
Most chinking is a masonry product, is it not? I ask because I'm concerned about the suitability of NM for this.
 
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Exposed NM is permitted in dwellings(334.10(A)(1).

The recess at the joint beteween logs meets the "closely follow the surface of the building finish" of 334.15(A), and the curved logs certainly provide as much protection as running boards.

The faces of the logs, which are probably equivalent to the framing members of 300.4(D), are more than 1 1/4" from the cable.

I think you have adequate protection. The wire should be stapled in place before the caulking is applied.
 
-marty said:
I've been asked to wire a log cabin that is finished.

Normally I wire as the logs go together.

There is no inspection - doesn't mean no code.

HO wants surface romex. He will hide with chinking. (Like silicone caulk.)

Question 1 - Didn't the code at one time say romex over 7' didn't need protection.
Click to expand...

It may have at one time, but it doesn't now. One jurisdiction I work in does enforce a 7' rule in certain instances (e.g., unfinished garages), but it's an "interpretation" the AHJ came up with.
-marty said:
Question 2 - Art 334.15 (B) says that romex must be protected where necessary. So, where is "where necessary".
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AHJ gets to decide that one. Basically, ask the inspector. If there's no inspection, then I suppose you get to decide the issue.
 
Pierre C Belarge said:
The chinking is covering the NM... what about the 1 1/4 dimension... what protects the future person from knowing where the NM is and potential damage in the future?
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I`m with you Charlie,The cuvature of the logs doesn`t negate the 1 1/4 measurement.A running board that is as high as the Nm applies to attic space but wiring for walls has a definitive 1 1/4 from the edge of an opening to the edge of the framing member.

Your friend should have thought about electrical prior to having the house built.But hind sight is 20/20.So the question is what is the safest and best way to remedy it.

One option is to use wiremold in the recess of the logs and notch the boxes in for the receptacles .Switches would be a pain though.Another option is to use the Nm in the groove and have 1/8 in metal plate strips painted to match and use double stick foam to mount them.(just a thought)
To protect the NM.No matter which way you go it`s going to be a pain.Hope he pays well !!!!!
 
Thanks for your thoughts. I decided not to engage myself in this project because what I want to do is to far from what the ho wants.

I want there never to be a claim on my insurance, or my reputation blemished.

It's the guy that put the log package together that needs the bad reputation.

Thanks again.
 
try

320.23 In Accessible Attics. Type AC cables in accessible
attics or roof spaces shall be installed as specified in
320.23(A) and (B).
(A) Where Run Across the Top of Floor Joists. Where
run across the top of floor joists, or within 2.1 m (7 ft) of
floor or floor joists across the face of rafters or studding, in
attics and roof spaces that are accessible, the cable shall be
protected by substantial guard strips that are at least as high
as the cable. Where this space is not accessible by permanent
stairs or ladders, protection shall only be required
within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the nearest edge of the scuttle hole or
attic entrance.


I think this might be where the 7' came from
 
-marty said:
Thanks for your thoughts. I decided not to engage myself in this project because what I want to do is to far from what the ho wants.

I want there never to be a claim on my insurance, or my reputation blemished.

It's the guy that put the log package together that needs the bad reputation.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Might very well be the right choice.There are some better to walk away from.
 
-marty said:
Thanks for your thoughts. I decided not to engage myself in this project because what I want to do is to far from what the ho wants.

I want there never to be a claim on my insurance, or my reputation blemished.

It's the guy that put the log package together that needs the bad reputation.
Click to expand...
That might be the better route. As a bonus to you, log home wiring is frustrating work anyhow. There's probably something just as profitable but much more interesting that you can do during this same time. I constantly have to resist the urge to say "yes" to every potential job that crosses my plate.
 
emahler said:
or wiremold. can be blended in much better than EMT or mc/ac.
Click to expand...

Why? The curvature of the logs should be more than sufficient to hide EMT and EMT is cheaper than wiremold per linear foot.
 
A good router, some 10' x 1-1/2" #12 guage steel strips,Romex cable, and a supply of large head roofing nails to alternate on each side of the strips to hold in place by letting the overhang of the nail head pin down the stripping. And let the painter figure out how to hide what is showing. Get er done!
 
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