WIFI control

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Ponchik

Senior Member
Location
CA
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Electronologist
Looking for a reliable WIFI controlled contactors or receptacle.

Lutron makes this outdoor smart plug but it is a plug and play and is kind of large.

Thanks in advance for your replies and suggestions.
 
Why WIFI?
I would avoid WIFI anything.
Most of the devices run off batteries and can be easily hacked.
Do a proper low voltage control instead.
 
Most Power modules do not use batteries as they get powered from the outlet that the remote controlled module is getting its AC power from. I agree about using Wi-Fi protocol and would recommend a ZigBee alternative. You can find them on Amazon and they are very dependable. You may need a ZigBee gateway (inexpensive) that plugs into the USB port in your computer or Home Control system and communicates with the ZigBee devices (Modules... Sensors...). It creates a Mesh Network for all the devices. There are 3 frequencies that ZigBee uses, 2.4Ghz (not Wi-Fi), 868Mhz and 915Mhz, so some may not communicate with each other. Most ZigBee devices are comparable with Alexa if you really want that option. Zigbee has its own security in its chips, and they pretty much only communicate with their assigned gateway or authorized ZigBee devices in its Mesh network. My ZigBee devices communicate from 70' outside to my ZigBee gateway in the house, very pleased... but I designed my own ZigBee network and sensors (low power requirement).

One other option is Z-Wave devices. They have a maximum of 4 hops (request transferred between other Z-Wave devices to get to the main controller) so the distance is somewhat limited. They also require a hub and also available on Amazon.

What are you using for the Home Control/Automation controller?

No easy wireless answer for your question.

Good Luck
 
I’m currently using the Legrand with Netatmo Adorne products in my house. It’s a Zigbee mesh network. They have receptacles that are half-controlled, and you can connect downstream receptacles to it as well.

Another neat feature is that you can pair a wireless switch to the receptacle, or to any other Zigbee device on the network.

Their Zigbee gateway is compatible with other Zigbee Light Link devices like Philips Hue bulbs, and Zigbee relays. I have some Hue lamps in my setup and also some Tuya Zigbee relays. The Hue integration is awesome because I can use the Legrand wireless dimmer to control them and it matches my existing devices.

They have their own app, but I have mine linked to my Apple HomeKit account. It also works with Alexa and Google Home.



Right now they offer switches, dimmers, and receptacles. They’re about to release a motion sensor, mechanical switch interface, wireless relay, and a 4-button scene control switch. They also have a 4-button key fob coming but I’m not sure how useful that will be. Not sure when those items will actually be for sale but they are available in Europe right now and Legrand is shipping me some to test that are supposed to be here in a couple of weeks.

They’ve been solid for me. I’ve sold quite a few to customers and everyone has been happy with them. It’s essentially their Caseta competitor.

Wanted to add also that the prices you see on their website are typically 20% or so higher than what you’ll pay through your P&S distributor. They’re also good about sampling products if you’re buying P&S already; it’s worth reaching out to your local rep and asking if they’ll sample you a kit to try out. They like putting new products in the hands of contractors that will be selling it.


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Most Power modules do not use batteries as they get powered from the outlet that the remote controlled module is getting its AC power from. I agree about using Wi-Fi protocol and would recommend a ZigBee alternative. You can find them on Amazon and they are very dependable. You may need a ZigBee gateway (inexpensive) that plugs into the USB port in your computer or Home Control system and communicates with the ZigBee devices (Modules... Sensors...). It creates a Mesh Network for all the devices. There are 3 frequencies that ZigBee uses, 2.4Ghz (not Wi-Fi), 868Mhz and 915Mhz, so some may not communicate with each other. Most ZigBee devices are comparable with Alexa if you really want that option. Zigbee has its own security in its chips, and they pretty much only communicate with their assigned gateway or authorized ZigBee devices in its Mesh network. My ZigBee devices communicate from 70' outside to my ZigBee gateway in the house, very pleased... but I designed my own ZigBee network and sensors (low power requirement).

One other option is Z-Wave devices. They have a maximum of 4 hops (request transferred between other Z-Wave devices to get to the main controller) so the distance is somewhat limited. They also require a hub and also available on Amazon.

What are you using for the Home Control/Automation controller?

No easy wireless answer for your question.

Good Luck
Zigbees hackable also. If your looking for security hardwire something is your best option.

For op do you need Wi-Fi?? it works off the picos only if you want.
 
I like the TP-link Kasa WiFI outlets and switches. I prefer wifi over zwave or zigbee.

The problem with those protocols is that the devices are tied to the specific hub. If the hub dies or when it's discontinued and you need a new one, you have to re-pair all of the devices.
 
I used to use the X-10 system. But that is old technology even though I never had any issues with it. Sometimes I need to control security lights that I can not install a wall switch for.

I will look into the ZigBee technology.

Thank you for your replies.
 
I used to use the X-10 system. But that is old technology even though I never had any issues with it. Sometimes I need to control security lights that I can not install a wall switch for.

I will look into the ZigBee technology.

Thank you for your replies.
Lol,
My introduction to Home Automation/Control started prior to X10 in the EARLY 70's. I built my own system using a Sinclair 1000 computer (and still have in the original box with the 16K plug in module) even before I got my Commodore 20, then 64 (which I also have yet). All the modules were built from scratch by me and were connected to a relays that controlled the lights. Used low voltage, Quad telephone wire and a lot of relays. Was happy to see X10 when it was introduced, even though I had to un-wire everything.

I then saw and purchased my first X10 back in the late 70's and have made a few transitions since then (all those went belly up). The X10 program was running on my Commodore 64 computer. The only issue I had with X10 was line noise and I used capacitors across each phase and neutral to eliminate MOST of the line noise issue. I always issued commands 2 times to insure that the proper request was received by the X10 module. I still have a box of about 30+ X10 modules and devices that all work.

I am now in the process of moving my Home Automation/Control devices/sensors to ZigBee with some Z-Wave and away from Insteon products. Currently my home is controlled by Insteon (they went belly up this year) sensors and modules and the main controller is "POLISY" by Universal-Devices. I love POLISY (so does the wife) but I have started moving away from it to "Home Assistant", which is an "Open Source" system that communicates with almost EVERY type of manufactured module/sensor. They do have their own HUB/Controller (optional), but you can load the "Open Source" software on a Raspberry Pi, which is the method I use (Raspberry Pi 4). For residential customers I would most likely go with the "Control4" system which of course is expensive $$$$ and again is a propitiatory system, but it is high end and has a GREAT user interface and features. You need to complete a training process to be able to purchase/install their products.

You know that your Home Automation/Control system is designed/working GREAT when your neighbors call you and say they thought you were on vacation, but they see the lights inside and outside the house are going on/off at random times along with shades automatically opening/closing depending on TOD and sun intensity.

Currently I am working on an electronic "big mean barking dog" playback system. When there is someone that gets withing 15/20 feet of the house's perimeter. Two large speakers inside at different sides of the house that will adjust the speaker volume to sound like the dog is running back and forth and if they go to a door there will be a speaker behind it to sound like the mean dog is right behind the door. Probably a hundred watt amp will be needed. Working with Laser and Ultrasonic sensors to detect people walking close to the house.

Personally, ZigBee is the way to go. Z-Wave is OK, but has a Z-Wave alliance and is part of the I think it is called the "MAKE" alliance which Microsoft, Google.... and other BIG names are pushing which means you will need a "MAKE" hub ($$$$) and only use MAKE specific Z-Wave products ($$$$). MAKE is still in the planning stages as it has been for the last 4 or so years.

Good Luck
 
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