Wire molding and ceiling lights

[mtnelectrical]

Start working on old buildings and adding switches for ceiling lights which did not have a switch (pull chain) now if the lights are 4 or 5" max in dia. we could put a round wiremold box and run down to the switch, but if we want to put some larger lights 2 bulb usually are 8" or more in dia. Are we allowed to channel the light fixture so the wiremold could enter the fixture. We usally run the grounding wire so we have a good grounding but it would pass inspection? What you guys suggest?

 

[mcclary's electrical]

Is there a reason they cannot be chased?,,,,what type of construction? I cannot imagine doing that without it looking "cheesey",,,,but I understand sometimes there is no choice. If the ceiling boxes are hot,,,,,,put a remote kit in them and mount remote where the switch SHOULD be.

 

[nhfire77]

does wiremold make an extension ring??

What about this: V5737

http://www.wiremold.com/shared_content/pdf/ed532.pdf

Look at the bottom right of the page, its not an extesion ring but it mounts to a ceiling box.

 

[aline]

How about using these?
http://www.adhocelectronics.com/Products/Wireless-Lighting-Control

 

[mtnelectrical]

yes, that's what we want to use the extension on the ceiling and wiremolded to the switch, but if only use small diameter fixtures but how we we installed larger lights on this wiremold boxes

 

[celtic]

Extension box the existing fixture location....stub out to the new fixture/WM box.
Yes, they will not be centered anymore.

 

[mtnelectrical]

no I think I am not being clear enough. There is a light on the ceiling surface mounted with a pull chain. We want to add a switch. So we install the round wiremold box where we would mount the new fixture and we run the wiremold to the switch,done. The problem is when we have to put fixtures with larger canopies that are bigger than the wiremold round box and this fixtures are surface mounted too. I've seen some installation where the canopies have been notched off for the wiremold and were install direct on the ceiling without using an extension or round wiremold box. the question is if this would pass inspection

 

[aline]

The question is if this would pass inspection

This sounds like a question only the inspector can answer for you.
Why not ask the inspector if this is ok before doing it.

That being said has anyone used the battery-free wireless switches I mentioned in my earlier post?
I'm curious as to how well these work.

 

[mtnelectrical]

You know what the other day my supplier offered it to me and said that he is starting to sell this product, the down part is that you have to put batteries on the switch side, right?

 

[LarryFine]

The Wiremold 5739's are the largest at 6-3/8".

What you guys suggest?

I suggest getting the switch loop wiring above the ceiling before you hit the fixture. At the wall would be even better.

 

[aline]

You know what the other day my supplier offered it to me and said that he is starting to sell this product, the down part is that you have to put batteries on the switch side, right?

Wrong.
This product doesn't use batteries at all. http://www.adhocelectronics.com/Products/Wireless-Lighting-Control
The action of pushing the switch generates the power needed to send the signal.

Here's another link that describes how it works. http://www.smarthomeusa.com/ShopByManufacturer/Ad-Hoc-Electronics/Item/E8T-S1A/?adwatcher=3

 

[celtic]

no I think I am not being clear enough.

the question is if this would pass inspection

You're explanation was/is fine.

IF I was the EI on the job? NO

 

[mxslick]

You're explanation was/is fine.

IF I was the EI on the job? NO

Why would you not pass it? Got a Code reference?

I cannot see a reason it would be in violation, as installed as the OP described, all of the wiring and connections would be enclosed in the box and the wiremold, and the wiremold would be passing thru the "dead space" under the fixture canopy that would normally be in direct contact with the ceiling surface anyway.

Depending on the fixtures used and how well the notch was made, it would either look ok or really cheesy, but again I cannot see any violation.

 

[Cow]

I had this problem too when I did a remodel in a senior center. 19 apartments with switched receps changed to wiremold and ceiling lights. The canopies were about 11" dia. and made to hug the ceiling. I used the standard 4/0 wiremold boxes and then used GB caterpillars to space the fixture off the box so it wouldn't squish the wires running under the fixture out to the lamp sockets. Of course this left a ~1" space between the fixture and the ceiling, definitely not ideal, but the engineers spec'ed it, not me.

 

[celtic]

Why would you not pass it? Got a Code reference?

Sure...grabbing at the lowest hanging fruit on the tree ~ 110.3(B).

 

[aline]

Just staple romex on the outside of the wall like the local handyman did in the house I was in the other day.

He installed a ceiling fan and had romex stapled on the surface of the walls and ceiling.
Very nice looking job.

It's no wonder they can do this work so much cheaper than I can.

 

[infinity]

You're explanation was/is fine.

IF I was the EI on the job? NO

I agree, for one thing the Wiremold would not be mechanically fastened to the lighting outlet box and would merely be stubbed into a slot cut in the side of the fixture. IMO 396.100 would be violated with the method suggested in the OP.

 

[magictolight.com]

Just staple romex on the outside of the wall like the local handyman did in the house I was in the other day.

He installed a ceiling fan and had romex stapled on the surface of the walls and ceiling.
Very nice looking job.


What's wrong with that? I thought everybody did it that way!

 

[PetrosA]

Can you at least fish from the existing box in the ceiling to the wall where you want the switch? If you can limit the wiremold to that run it won't look so bad, even if you had to channel for joists and patch...