Wayne, I would suggest that the next time you look at a dryer terminal connection similar to the one shown here, take a REAL CLOSE LOOK! That green/yellow wire connects directly to the NEUTRAL connector block, and is there for a 3-wire connection scheme. IT MUST BE REMOVED AND ISOLATED, OR REATTACHED TO THE NEUTRAL TO BE COMPLIANT FOR A 4-WIRE CONNECTION!
You can't tell from those photos, since it is literally hidden from view, but closer inspection reveals this is case. Testing with a continuity tester also confirms this. I checked with many instruction manuals, which also back this assertion up.
That's correct....only I wouldn't re-attach it to the neutral, simply cut it off.
Just last Friday, I installed a new circuit for a (older) existing dryer.
The old circuit was 3 wire.....2 hots and a ground.
I replaced it with a 4 wire circuit.
I also replaced the (3 wire) cord on the dryer with a 4 wire cord.
On the dryer, there was a (green) grounding wire that was bonded to the dryer chassis.
The other end of this green wire went to the
top of the center (neutral) terminal and was bonded to the white (neutral) wire.
I clipped off the existing green wire, and bonded the grounding wire of the cord to the dryer chassis.
I'm positive that it's the proper connection of the neutral/grounding conductors for this dryer.
I believe that this bonding set-up will be found on older model dryers only.
The newer dryers will have a copper bonding strap that runs from the center (grounded) terminal to the dryer chassis.
On these dryers, you will simply remove the copper strap and bond the (green) grounding conductor (in the cord) to the dryer chassis.
steve