under cabinet lighting

[mjf]

I seem to get alot of kitchen remodels. I usually suggest (and install) 4" cans with reflective trims 24" out from walls (12" out from upper cab) for countertop illumination. Works well.

I have always tried to avoid uc lighting because whether they were hard wired or plug in type they just always seemed to be a PITA and I am never truly satisfied with the wire routing and attachment etc. The inspectors and the HO's were always satisfied the times I've done uc lighting over the years, but like I said, I want a better way.

As more and more customers want uc lighting I find myself here, at the fountain of knowledge and experience, asking for help, suggestions, tips, etc.

Thanks in advance

 

[Buck Parrish]

I use the Xeon ones that are each hard wired or hook several off of one that is hard wired.
I have had pretty good luck. But customers are not good at changing the bulbs.
I agree they can be a PITA.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I have gone a full 360 degrees on these. Started with fluorescent went to halogen and zenon(a royal PITA) and now I am back to recommending flourescent.

 

[augie47]

I'll send you the link on a particular brand later, but locally a lot of folks have begun using a LED "tape". It is LEDs on a sticky back tape that installs quickly, gives a very even light and has a lot of bells and whistles for what works out to be a decent price. I was impressed and having wrestled with "stand" u/'c light often, this was so simple.

 

[infinity]

I have gone a full 360 degrees on these. Started with fluorescent went to halogen and zenon(a royal PITA) and now I am back to recommending flourescent.

Are the fluorescent types you're using dimmable? If not then IMO they're a poor choice. One of the biggest reasons I always use dimmable xenon.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

Are the fluorescent types you're using dimmable? If not then IMO they're a poor choice. One of the biggest reasons I always use dimmable xenon.

Well I guess they are a poor choice but we have very little trouble with them and the HO isn't going nuts changing bulbs.

 

[flashlight]

I have gone a full 360 degrees on these. Started with fluorescent went to halogen and zenon(a royal PITA) and now I am back to recommending flourescent.

I agree. Halogens and xenons burn so hot also.

 

[walkerj]

I prefer fluorescents hardwired in.

They are a PITA but also bring in that extra $$.

If the customer is going for a "look" then a dimmable fixture is preferable, but if they plan on actually using them as task lighting then, IMO, fluorescent is the way to go.

 

[iwire]

I'll send you the link on a particular brand later, but locally a lot of folks have begun using a LED "tape". It is LEDs on a sticky back tape that installs quickly, gives a very even light and has a lot of bells and whistles for what works out to be a decent price. I was impressed and having wrestled with "stand" u/'c light often, this was so simple.

LEDs, we have been installing tons of them. We have done an entire large supermarket with all LED lighting and I do mean all.

Monday night I have a couple of guys installing 60' of LEDs under a canopy.

http://www.colorkinetics.com/ls/essentialwhite/ewflexslx/

 

[electricguy61]

CA Title 24 makes it very difficult to use anything but fluorescents in the kitchen.

50% of all lighting wattage must be high efficacy lighting.

We use a ton of the T-5 fluorescents, and have learned to feed only (1) 14/2
to any fixture, sometimes installing a j-box in the sink cabinet where they all feed from.

 

[augie47]

.............We use a ton of the T-5 fluorescents, and have learned to feed only (1) 14/2
to any fixture, sometimes installing a j-box in the sink cabinet where they all feed from.

That's a "trade secret" that a lot of folks, including me, have learned the hard way.
Occasional, when inspecting, I see where the E/C has left two 12/s (looped) for undercounter fluorescents and afterward heard the cussing associated with the trim out.

 

[electricmanscott]

Regardless of our personal preferences, customers that I work for will choose xenon 9.9 times out of ten. I agree with their choice and have no reason not to.

 

[brantmacga]

i think fluorescents are the best, but many customers prefer xenon or halogen spots.

if its halogen spots, i have the cabinet maker build a false bottom with a 1" gap to route all the wiring.


i really don't care how the wiring gets there as long as its compliant.

and yes, one #14 is the way to go when doing these. it saves many headaches when trying to get the fixture back together.

 

[Mr.Sparkle]

...feed only (1) 14/2
to any fixture, sometimes installing a j-box in the sink cabinet where they all feed from.

This is the only way I do it as well and the best looking lights I have found (warmest color, matches well with Incandescent bulbs etc...) are the Kichler series Xenon, I've installed tons and never had a complaint. Sure they run warm but what feels hot to your touch really is not as hot as you think it is in regards to lighting.

I typically put the whips 56" off the floor and try to get them poked out in the center of each upper cabinet they will go under.

Here is the one I most commonly use, just be careful the mounting screws that come with them are sometimes a tad long for the thickness of the bottom of a cabinet, nothing a small washer or two doesn't take care of though.

 

[infinity]

Well I guess they are a poor choice but we have very little trouble with them and the HO isn't going nuts changing bulbs.

Sorry didn't mean to sound so curt. Just seems like whenever I've installed this type of lighting the customer always wants a dimmable fixture. Something that many decide after they're installed.

 

[LarryFine]

I have gone a full 360 degrees on these. Started with fluorescent went to halogen and zenon(a royal PITA) and now I am back to recommending flourescent.

I never left my preference for fluorescent UCL's. They're just the right shape for a line of light, and they run relatively cool and cheap.

Incandescents are too hot and have spotty coverage. The only advantage is dimmability, but fluorescents aren't overly bright anyway.

 

[LarryFine]

Occasional, when inspecting, I see where the E/C has left two 12/s (looped) for undercounter fluorescents and afterward heard the cussing associated with the trim out.

I've used shallow Wiremold Boxes with standard plastic blank plates as under-cabinet J-boxes. Plenty of room for even two 12/2's plus the fixture wire, and an inch of slit 1/8" rubber tube makes a fine grommet for the edge of the box KO.

When I've used pucks with attached lamp-cord wires, I've used a hot-melt glue-stick gun to attach the wires to the cabinet bottom. I use the screws for the pucks themselves, though, because of the afore-mentioned heat issues.

 

[iwire]

Incandescents are too hot

Too hot for what?

Personally I like my plates prewarmed.

I've used shallow Wiremold Boxes with standard plastic blank plates as under-cabinet J-boxes. Plenty of room for even two 12/2's plus the fixture wire, and an inch of slit 1/8" rubber tube makes a fine grommet for the edge of the box KO.

I think the NEC requires the NM to be secured to the box.:grin:

 

[Mr.Sparkle]

I think Bob was the one who prefers using hot glue guns to "temporarily" install puck lighting? :grin:

Was that your post talking about doing that?

 

[brantmacga]

about two weeks ago, I was at a b2b conference in town and saw a neat product i thought i should mention. we have a guy here that sells CFL's exclusively and has a new fluorescent shaped bulb that is actually LED's. You bypass the ballast and install this bulb as a retrofit; they also have a fixture that comes w/o a ballast and straightwired sockets for this bulb.

I don't know what all sizes they come in but the one on display was a 48" T12; price was $100. I'm sure you can get them for less because this particular company is always higher than anyone else on price.

I found the following pic through a google search; this is exactly like what was displayed.