fluorscent lighting disconnects
- Thread starter mjc1060
- Start date
- Status
410.130 General.
(G) Disconnecting Means.
(1) General. In indoor locations other than dwellings and
associated accessory structures, fluorescent luminaires that utilize
double-ended lamps and contain ballast(s) that can be
serviced in place shall have a disconnecting means either internal
or external to each luminaire. For existing installed luminaires
without disconnecting means, at the time a ballast is
replaced, a disconnecting means shall be installed. The line
side terminals of the disconnecting means shall be guarded.
Exception No. 1: A disconnecting means shall not be required
for luminaires installed in hazardous (classified)
location(s).
Exception No. 2: A disconnecting means shall not be required
for emergency illumination required in 700.16.
Exception No. 3: For cord-and-plug-connected luminaires,
an accessible separable connector or an accessible
plug and receptacle shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting
means.
Exception No. 4: A disconnecting means shall not be required
in industrial establishments with restricted public
access where conditions of maintenance and supervision
ensure that only qualified persons service the installation
by written procedures.
Exception No. 5: Where more than one luminaire is installed
and supplied by other than a multiwire branch circuit,
a disconnecting means shall not be required for every
luminaire when the design of the installation includes disconnecting
means, such that the illuminated space cannot
be left in total darkness.
Much appreciated
Much appreciated
I have to meet with a customer who is using me to generate ideas for a new building. This individual is under the assumption that 277 Volt lighting is cheaper (less KWH) to operate than lighting powered by 120 Volts. What I find most ironic is that I was watching a Mike Holt (of all things) electrical theory dvd and Mike says, not verbatim, that it is not wise to explain this to a customer because people unfortunatley will never believe you. Thank you.
Much appreciated
I have to meet with a customer who is using me to generate ideas for a new building. This individual is under the assumption that 277 Volt lighting is cheaper (less KWH) to operate than lighting powered by 120 Volts. What I find most ironic is that I was watching a Mike Holt (of all things) electrical theory dvd and Mike says, not verbatim, that it is not wise to explain this to a customer because people unfortunatley will never believe you. Thank you.
On a 20 amp circuit you can have more lights on a 277 volt circuit , Than on a 120 volt circuit , Because of the amperage on the ballast.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
A 40 watt light bulb generates 40 watts thus a 277v ballast operating a 40 watt bulb is no different than a 120v ballast operating a 40 watt bulb-- they both use 40 watts. Of course the ballast efficiency also comes into lay
That's why The wattage on florescent lamps does not mean anything,,It is the current draw marked on the ballast for the type of lamp and the corresponding voltage that determines the total wattage used ,,Right?
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
Line losses are all that it will save, they will be so low that they are negligible.
The lighting will still consume the same wattage, which is what you are billed for.
electricus
Member
- Location
- wisconsin
No different than having equipment with motors that can be wired 120V or 240V, 208-240V or 480V. Power (Watts) is volts x amps. Basically when you double the voltage you cut the amps in half.
Operation cost is basically the same. The only cost savings would be in the initial installation (could use smaller wire, conduit, cord, etc). On the other hand as voltage goes up so does the price of electrical parts with voltage ratings like cord caps, etc.
The nice thing about running higher voltage lighting is the amoutn of fixtures that can be put on one circuit. Very handy for large open areas. In this case there are less circuits, less breakers, less wire, less/smaller conduit.
Really in the end it is a wash for cost to install and really depends on the project. Operational cost (volts x amps = watts) will not change.
Operation cost is basically the same. The only cost savings would be in the initial installation (could use smaller wire, conduit, cord, etc). On the other hand as voltage goes up so does the price of electrical parts with voltage ratings like cord caps, etc.
The nice thing about running higher voltage lighting is the amoutn of fixtures that can be put on one circuit. Very handy for large open areas. In this case there are less circuits, less breakers, less wire, less/smaller conduit.
Really in the end it is a wash for cost to install and really depends on the project. Operational cost (volts x amps = watts) will not change.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
A motor that draws 20 amps at 120 will draw 10 amps at 240. How much less heat will be lost through the conductors if operating at the higher voltage? So you still save some line losses in those cases but usually the small amount saved will be negligible.
squaredan
Senior Member
- Location
- Pennsylvania
I know you asked for the code reference, this is what we use to meet that code requirement..hope this helps also..
http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_termination/luminaire_disconnects/
Dan
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
Unless only one circuit feeds the lighting in the area, and/or there is only one switch, exception 5 can often eliminate the requirement for these disconnects.
But when installing new luminaires I have not seen a new luminaire that this applies to that didn't already have the disconnect included ever since this requirement was first put into code (2005 I believe, but could have been 2002).
rt66electric
Senior Member
- Location
- Oklahoma
Damn orange thingys
Damn orange thingys
Ok
I have been zapped more times by factory wires coming out of the fancy orange connector...
I am staying w/wirenuts.
Damn orange thingys
Ok
I have been zapped more times by factory wires coming out of the fancy orange connector...
I am staying w/wirenuts.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
Are you talking stray strands that didn't make it into the connector or something else?
rt66electric
Senior Member
- Location
- Oklahoma
the stab-lok kind
the stab-lok kind
The small black-white wires that wind up under your thumb, instead of remaining in the orange connector.
the stab-lok kind
The small black-white wires that wind up under your thumb, instead of remaining in the orange connector.
- Status