Burndy MD6 and MD6-8

[Strummed]

My local power company let's us disconnect and reconnect services ourselves. I am sick of dealing with split bolts while up in the air, just to have them cut off the next week by the lineman who upgrades the overhead line after the service change. They make connectors that are easier to use and insulate, but they are expensive.

I hear a lot of people talking about the Burndy MD6 or MD6-8. I was wondering if people with experience could tell me the difference between these two models? The advantages? Also, how do the dies and crimps work? Are they only for 1 wire size, or do they cover a range of sizes?

The customer side of the splice is either #2 AL, #2/0 CU, or #4/0 AL.

The PoCo side of the splice can vary, I am not sure what sizes they use. I upgrade from old 60A services that are fed with tiny conductors, old 100A services that use a little bigger conductors, and newer 200A services that use even bigger conductors. I would need to buy crimps that were specific to the exact conductor size?

Any other info on the Burndy crimper as well as the dies and crimps that I would need is greatly appreciated.

 

[Hv&Lv]

My local power company let's us disconnect and reconnect services ourselves. I am sick of dealing with split bolts while up in the air, just to have them cut off the next week by the lineman who upgrades the overhead line after the service change. They make connectors that are easier to use and insulate, but they are expensive.

I hear a lot of people talking about the Burndy MD6 or MD6-8. I was wondering if people with experience could tell me the difference between these two models? The advantages? Also, how do the dies and crimps work? Are they only for 1 wire size, or do they cover a range of sizes?

The customer side of the splice is either #2 AL, #2/0 CU, or #4/0 AL.

The PoCo side of the splice can vary, I am not sure what sizes they use. I upgrade from old 60A services that are fed with tiny conductors, old 100A services that use a little bigger conductors, and newer 200A services that use even bigger conductors. I would need to buy crimps that were specific to the exact conductor size?

Any other info on the Burndy crimper as well as the dies and crimps that I would need is greatly appreciated.

The difference is the nose die. We use both all the time. The MD6-8 is what I would suggest if you are going to use it for secondary taps at the weatherhead only. It has the "O" and "D3" die head. The MD6 has the 5/8 nose die and the D3 die head.

 

[Strummed]

The difference is the nose die. We use both all the time. The MD6-8 is what I would suggest if you are going to use it for secondary taps at the weatherhead only. It has the "O" and "D3" die head. The MD6 has the 5/8 nose die and the D3 die head.

I appreciate your response, the MD6-8 is the one that I will get. Can you tell me what the "O" and "D3" die head means? Will those two do the crimps that I need or do I have to get more dies? Thanks.

 

[Hv&Lv]

I appreciate your response, the MD6-8 is the one that I will get. Can you tell me what the "O" and "D3" die head means? Will those two do the crimps that I need or do I have to get more dies? Thanks.

Check out these H taps here on the first 3 pages. All use the O or D dies, and should be all you need if you only use H taps. Look at the splices on page 49 (11 on the pdf counter) for straight line splices that use the 5/8 nose die. That would be the MD6. You can get a die that fits in the D section of the MD6-8 that is a 5/8, or an 840 for the inline splices. If it were me, and I had to purchase one, it would be a MD6-8, and if I needed a 5/8, I would buy the dies only.
http://www.tnb.com/util/docs/CG_CC_Full.pdf

Here is more on the Burndy tool:
http://www.specialized.net/Specialized//Assets/ProductSpecifications//109X082.PDF

 

[Strummed]

Thanks again. I really like the straight line splices that use the 5/8 die. Those would be good when doing SE cable services, I could fabricate the entire thing, even crimp the splices on the ends of the conductors while on the ground. Not having the insulate them is a plus, and the 50 cent price tag is awesome. I could pay for the crimper in a few service changes.

 

[ptonsparky]

Pay attention to the die required. I had a pretty healthy helper that managed to break a handle out of mine when he had the wrong ones in.

 

[Strummed]

Will do, this is a big investment so I don't want to damage it..

I'm starting to question which crimps would be better, the inline type barrel looking crimps that use the 5/8 die or the H-taps that use the O die...

Decisions decisions.

 

[busman]

I did an awful lot of research before I bought the MD6-8 tool. I use it with Ilsco AH series H-taps all the time (http://www.ilsco.com/ProductsDetail...=Ge8gTuMMHMegZ5ogUcvxmmQjAPgKWhQi4h7Z6quzE4U=). They are nice because only 4 different sizes are needed to crimp any combination of 4/0 thru #6. I use them for overhead services and temporary splices in meter cans. I've found some heat shrink (Panduit I think) that just fits over the crimped splice. It has the "hot-melt" sealant inside and probably makes a very weather resistant seal when covered with some 33+. I've heard from some linemen that outdoor splices can fail due to water intrusion and freezing.

Mark

 

[Strummed]

I did an awful lot of research before I bought the MD6-8 tool. I use it with Ilsco AH series H-taps all the time (http://www.ilsco.com/ProductsDetail...=Ge8gTuMMHMegZ5ogUcvxmmQjAPgKWhQi4h7Z6quzE4U=). They are nice because only 4 different sizes are needed to crimp any combination of 4/0 thru #6. I use them for overhead services and temporary splices in meter cans. I've found some heat shrink (Panduit I think) that just fits over the crimped splice. It has the "hot-melt" sealant inside and probably makes a very weather resistant seal when covered with some 33+. I've heard from some linemen that outdoor splices can fail due to water intrusion and freezing.

Mark

Thanks for the reply.

AFAIK, the existing PoCo line is usually #2 although it could be smaller on older small services. If I purchased AH-1 and AH-2 H-taps, that should be good to connect my new services (either #2 AL, #2/0 CU, or #4/0 AL). Does that seem correct in your experience?

 

[busman]

Thanks for the reply.

AFAIK, the existing PoCo line is usually #2 although it could be smaller on older small services. If I purchased AH-1 and AH-2 H-taps, that should be good to connect my new services (either #2 AL, #2/0 CU, or #4/0 AL). Does that seem correct in your experience?

Yes, that should cover it. I use a fair number of AH-4 taps when splicing the old SE cable to new SE cable inside the meter can (as some PoCo's require). The new is almost always 4/0 and the old is frequently larger than #1.

The only other trick I can give is that these taps call for 2 or 3 crimps. I've been known to crimp them (using many crimps) all the way down the length of the tap, so the heat shrink will fit over it. I wouldn't skip the instructions like this on a permanent installation, but I do it where the temps are only there for a few weeks. I did cut a cross section on one of these once (that I happened to get back after the PoCo did their hookup). The strands were compressed to the point that you almost could not distingish them from one another. I'm sure it was making fine contact.

Mark

 

[RichB]

I did an awful lot of research before I bought the MD6-8 tool. I use it with Ilsco AH series H-taps all the time (http://www.ilsco.com/ProductsDetail...=Ge8gTuMMHMegZ5ogUcvxmmQjAPgKWhQi4h7Z6quzE4U=). They are nice because only 4 different sizes are needed to crimp any combination of 4/0 thru #6. I use them for overhead services and temporary splices in meter cans. I've found some heat shrink (Panduit I think) that just fits over the crimped splice. It has the "hot-melt" sealant inside and probably makes a very weather resistant seal when covered with some 33+. I've heard from some linemen that outdoor splices can fail due to water intrusion and freezing.

Mark

For using heat shrink--we use it all the time, Pacific NW, we make the splice two wraps of 33 then cover with heat shrink(no tape to extend beyond the heat shrink.

Here is the spec for the heat shrink--- Heat shrink insulating materials shall be the moisture blocking type meeting Mil Spec I-230053-- If done correctly works great!

 

[Strummed]

What do you use on the heat shrink? A butane heat gun?

What about just using those plastic insulating boxes that they make for the H-taps? They look nice and simple.

Most of the splices that I make are cut off within 2 weeks by the PoCo anyway.

 

[kwired]

Will do, this is a big investment so I don't want to damage it..

I'm starting to question which crimps would be better, the inline type barrel looking crimps that use the 5/8 die or the H-taps that use the O die...

Decisions decisions.

I use 5/8, 0, and D3 all the time, and would not get a crimper that doesn't have all three.

I did an awful lot of research before I bought the MD6-8 tool. I use it with Ilsco AH series H-taps all the time (http://www.ilsco.com/ProductsDetail...=Ge8gTuMMHMegZ5ogUcvxmmQjAPgKWhQi4h7Z6quzE4U=). They are nice because only 4 different sizes are needed to crimp any combination of 4/0 thru #6. I use them for overhead services and temporary splices in meter cans. I've found some heat shrink (Panduit I think) that just fits over the crimped splice. It has the "hot-melt" sealant inside and probably makes a very weather resistant seal when covered with some 33+. I've heard from some linemen that outdoor splices can fail due to water intrusion and freezing.

Mark

For using heat shrink--we use it all the time, Pacific NW, we make the splice two wraps of 33 then cover with heat shrink(no tape to extend beyond the heat shrink.

Here is the spec for the heat shrink--- Heat shrink insulating materials shall be the moisture blocking type meeting Mil Spec I-230053-- If done correctly works great!

Why are we putting tape over heat shrink? Seems pointless.

Using heat shrink for splices at service drop also seems like overkill, but I won't stop you from doing it either. I just use snap on insulators that are in no way sealed. You have to arrange conductors so water drains out of them, but this isn't that big of a deal.

If you use the insulated butt splices they are not watertight either, and don't need to be.

 

[RichB]

Some of the contractors use a butane heat gun or torch--have to be really careful not to scorch the heat shrink or an electric heat gun.

And I should have specified a bit more-I was just commenting on the use of heat shrink-our splices are done in open bottomed hand holes, outside, along side the roadway so they get inundated (like that--the word for the day) all the time, not service connections..

 

[kwired]

Some of the contractors use a butane heat gun or torch--have to be really careful not to scorch the heat shrink or an electric heat gun.

And I should have specified a bit more-I was just commenting on the use of heat shrink-our splices are done in open bottomed hand holes, outside, along side the roadway so they get inundated (like that--the word for the day) all the time, not service connections..

Sorry, re-read your post and you are putting the tape under the shrink tube. I think Busman's comment was that the tape over the shrink tube seals the whole deal, which I do not agree with. The shrink that comes with sealant will outperform tape any day when it comes to sealing.

 

[RichB]

Sorry, re-read your post and you are putting the tape under the shrink tube. I think Busman's comment was that the tape over the shrink tube seals the whole deal, which I do not agree with. The shrink that comes with sealant will outperform tape any day when it comes to sealing.

No problem kwired--I always welcome constructive criticism as I tend to insert foot at times!!!--but i agree with youtape over this type of heat shrink seems not needed as the internal mastic makes a hermetic type seal

 

[kwired]

No problem kwired--I always welcome constructive criticism as I tend to insert foot at times!!!--but i agree with youtape over this type of heat shrink seems not needed as the internal mastic makes a hermetic type seal

I will ask you what your purpose is for tape under the shrink tube, as I see it as an unnecessary step and never do that myself when using shrink tube.

 

[Strummed]

Does anyone order the H-Taps and snap on insulators online?

 

[RichB]

Well--I'll give you the answer I got 11 years ago when I started here--and this was the answer to most of my questions--?"that's the way we have always done it." or,,"that's what our spec calls for":rant:--niether of which are satisfactory.:thumbsdown:

But to answer your question--They only reason any of us can come up with was that it was to "protect the heat shrink from any sharp edges formed during crimping, I think":slapheadFrom one of the Old Timers who had moved up into engineering from the field).

I know--if you use the correct tool and die and do it properly there are no sharp edges--however, Prior to the new "generation" starting here the "proper way" was any way that you felt like--the attitude was,"We're maintenance and those rules/specs don't apply to us":jawdrop:

We have "corrected" that way of thinking and doing things but can't seem to get the spec changed--that's harder than getting both houses of Congress to work together!!

 

[kwired]

Well--I'll give you the answer I got 11 years ago when I started here--and this was the answer to most of my questions--?"that's the way we have always done it." or,,"that's what our spec calls for":rant:--niether of which are satisfactory.:thumbsdown:

But to answer your question--They only reason any of us can come up with was that it was to "protect the heat shrink from any sharp edges formed during crimping, I think":slapheadFrom one of the Old Timers who had moved up into engineering from the field).

I know--if you use the correct tool and die and do it properly there are no sharp edges--however, Prior to the new "generation" starting here the "proper way" was any way that you felt like--the attitude was,"We're maintenance and those rules/specs don't apply to us":jawdrop:

We have "corrected" that way of thinking and doing things but can't seem to get the spec changed--that's harder than getting both houses of Congress to work together!!

I suspected that your answer would be similar to what you actually said. Seen that kind of thing myself - we have always done it this way, but we really don't know why. People that think you must put tape over "wire nuts" are nuts. Unless you still have exposed conductor - what is the purpose. Had many say to keep moisture out, to which I always reply - in my experience once moisture does find a way in - it just helps to keep it in.