PF correction devices, again

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EcoTroll

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here is a really easy way to explain this and cut through the kVAR fog using simple terms that even I can understand.

watts = volts x amps x power factor

if you increase the power factor, wattage doesn't go up, because the amperage goes down.
So... watts stay the same, volts stay the same, and (amps x power factor) stays the same. amps go down when power factor goes up and vise-versa.

but ... watts stays the same ... and kw meters read ... watts. So, the bill stays the same.

the only possible gains are through losses to heat due to increased amperage in the wire. And that math is pretty straight forward.
 
KVAR Report

KVAR Report

I work in the Brandeis University High Energy Physics Lab and we decided to test the device. Here are our results:

We would love some feedback if you have any.

{MODERATOR'S NOTE: Link removed. There is a separate thread discussing the Brandeis test. If you wish to provide feedback, do it here:
http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=127507}
 
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Did a service call for a city water treatment plant. They had just purchased the 'snake oil' and the person at the city claimed that thes devices could help save 20% on electricity. I had a hard time keeping a straight face after hearing that.

Large users with underloaded motors(<50%) and power factor penalty cause in their contract CAN achieve savings, but it is totally different from household use where none of these conditions exist.
 
great report

great report

I work in the Brandeis University High Energy Physics Lab and we decided to test the device. Here are our results:

We would love some feedback if you have any.

{MODERATOR'S NOTE: Link removed. There is a separate thread discussing the Brandeis test. If you wish to provide feedback, do it here:
http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=127507}

i enjoyed reading your test results. i've been looking around for a test like that.

it seems just about everybody on here absolutely detests these systems, and thinks anybody who has one in their home is a sucker. and furthermore anybody who says they have saved money with one is either an idiot or lying.

let me say that i do not have a lot of experience with these but i do understand power pretty well. power used is power used, i get that but could there be other reasons his friend saw savings?

winzip, where did your buddy install the meter in location to the service entrance and loads?

you guys are the pros here i just wanted to throw out some ideas.

during cycling of the AC and pool equipment did he see voltage dips before the install? im not sure how much additional power usage during those voltage dips during starting that would be eliminated by these could help, but shouldn't that at least be factored in?

have you looked at the service between the meter and the magic box? is it 16 awg and glowing red?

just wondering if there's something else going on there.
 
Any patience left? Have KVAR to test...

Any patience left? Have KVAR to test...

Is anyone willing to walk me through some KVAR unit testing... or is everyone sick and tired of talking about it? I have in my possession both a KVAR demo unit and a unit that I can install in my panel. I would like to run some tests.

We are electrical contractors that many have come to in the past few years asking our opinion of KVAR units. We also have 2 of our electrical suppliers that are constantly trying to get us to sign on and market/sell these units. We went to this forum after we were approached the first time and it was clear that this was not a product we wanted to support. So we have been consistent with our response to customer questions - "While the KVAR unit will improve Power Factor, the local utilities here only charge you for REAL power and you will therefore not see a savings in your bill."

Very recently a close friend began marketing the product and came to us for an endorsement. We returned to this forum to see if there have been any updates, research, etc. that would cause us to change our opinion. It was nice to find the fairly recent Brandeis University test and the NIST paper on the subject. Our friend is also interested in the facts, so he dropped off a test unit for us to play with. He claims that what he is witnessing does not match what we are explaining to him. He also gave us a new in box unit to install on our home/office service.

What testing can I do to show him, and others that continue to seek our opinion, some concrete measurements that came from his unit?

The demo unit includes a Kill A Watt meter, the KVAR unit with a switch to bring it in and out of the circuit, a Dayton 1/3 hp Split Phase Motor and a Sangamo Watthour meter through which they are obviously only running one 120V leg.

Right off the bat, he pointed out that the Real Power is reduced from 185 to 167 watts, the Apparent Power is reduced from 655 to 178 VA, and the Power Factor is raised from .28 to .93

We ran the motor for a while to get it warmed up and then timed how long it took to get to 0.14 KWH on the Kill-A-Watt meter.

No KVAR = 46 min

With KVAR = 49 min

I recognize that in this setup the KVAR unit is right at the load. My next test will be to add a 100' extension cord between the two (if he will let me cut the cord running between the two) and run the same test.

Any other things I should do?

We have no financial stakes in this - one way or the other. However, if this whole debate is finally settled... Attorneys General, Consumer Reports, Congressional Hearings, or whatever. :roll: ...we don't want upset homeowners coming after us for giving bad advice whichever advice we end up giving.
 
motor load

motor load

try putting some load on that motor, don't just let it spin free. this will simulate an actual load and get your power factor more in tune with what it would be in a real money saving situation. the 200' extension cord will probably get you some interesting results.

i think everybody is sick of talking about this stuff, but you're not talking about it, you're doing some testing. please post the results.
 
Emon Dmon meter

Emon Dmon meter

I also have an E-mon D-mon Kilowatthour meter available to use... Any opinions about using it versus or along with the Kill-A-Watt meter?
 
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