Proper way to install a 12V driver and switch in a metal 2-gang box

pfus

Member
Location
Chicago NW burbs
Occupation
Elect. Engineer
I like to determine the best way to install a 12V driver for small recessed lights together with a dimmer or switch in a metal 2-gang box
So, one one side 110V line with switch and on other side driver wired to switch and neutral. Other side of driver is 12V which would leave box though a rubber bushing or so behind drywall. It seems that there should be a divider wall in between?

Kind of like this:
as a wall mounted box with regular faceplate in front.

Something like this partition plate?


Or is this overkill? It seems a good idea to ensure that 12V wires can never touch 110V.
 

roger

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Fl
Occupation
Retired Electrician
I agree with Hal. The driver is already in it's own box with mounting provisions.
 

pfus

Member
Location
Chicago NW burbs
Occupation
Elect. Engineer
I would need open the wall, put it behind somewhere and put a cover in front then. For a clean installed look.
So, it would be ok to wire 110V from driver into box?
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
That driver contains its own junction box and is meant to be directly hard-wired.

Will the driver fit inside the shelf? I have run NM into hollow shelves for lighting.

I have also put drivers in old-work boxes w/blank plates in closets and pantries.
 

pfus

Member
Location
Chicago NW burbs
Occupation
Elect. Engineer
That driver contains its own junction box and is meant to be directly hard-wired.

Will the driver fit inside the shelf? I have run NM into hollow shelves for lighting.

I have also put drivers in old-work boxes w/blank plates in closets and pantries.
I have used WAC 12V power supplies in a a split metal box (black long box) connected to a surface mount box.
The driver might fit inside the shelf. But my concern would be serviceability as the shelf gets installed "permanently"
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Ah. You would need an access opening. I made sure mine would remain removable. It installed by sliding it onto full-depth arms, friction fit, no fasteners. I got lucky on that one.
 

pfus

Member
Location
Chicago NW burbs
Occupation
Elect. Engineer
How about this:
- two 1 gang boxes and connected them together with chase nipple
- in one box the switch or dimmer
- other side the driver
- driver 110V connected over to switch in box with switch
- 12V to leave in box with driver though an opening (gasket - or - NM though right hardware)
- cover plate with one switch and one blank side
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
cover plate with one switch and one blank side

You are not going to get a single two-gang plate to fit two boxes installed together as you intend. If you are going to go that route, use a separate box for the driver located next to, above or below and some distance away from the switch box. Cover with a separate blank plate.

-Hal
 

pfus

Member
Location
Chicago NW burbs
Occupation
Elect. Engineer
You are not going to get a single two-gang plate to fit two boxes installed together as you intend. If you are going to go that route, use a separate box for the driver located next to, above or below and some distance away from the switch box. Cover with a separate blank plate.

-Hal
thanks. that will be the easiest. Other option I thought about is to take a 2-gang box with a "Low Voltage Partition" wall. But those walls do not have knock outs.
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
If your really want to put the driver with the switch have you considered one of these?

That's a great idea, but unfortunately the driver the OP specs is constant current where yours is constant voltage. Whether or not it needs to be constant current to work with the LEDs the OP is using is another question.

-Hal
 

curt swartz

Electrical Contractor - San Jose, CA
Location
San Jose, CA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
That's a great idea, but unfortunately the driver the OP specs is constant current where yours is constant voltage. Whether or not it needs to be constant current to work with the LEDs the OP is using is another question.

-Hal
The OP said that driver was "Kind of like this" so I though they were just showing a driver with a box.

They also said they need a 12 volt driver. I have never seen puck lights that were were designed for a constant current driver. They are either 12 volt or 24 volt.

OP will need to clarify.
 

pfus

Member
Location
Chicago NW burbs
Occupation
Elect. Engineer
If your really want to put the driver with the switch have you considered one of these?
thanks for sharing. Did not know such products exist.

It is interesting how they supply a barrier between 110V and 12V, unless:

NEC CODE 725.136
Class 1 and Class 2 circuits in same enclosure must be separated
by a barrier unless Class 2 circuit conductors are installed in
accordance with 725.41 Class 1 Circuits. For example, Non-Metallic
(NM) cable is considered a Class 1 circuit conductor. Therefore, if
both high voltage and low voltage circuits are installed with NM
cable then the voltage barrier is not required for installation.
 

pfus

Member
Location
Chicago NW burbs
Occupation
Elect. Engineer
The OP said that driver was "Kind of like this" so I though they were just showing a driver with a box.

They also said they need a 12 volt driver. I have never seen puck lights that were were designed for a constant current driver. They are either 12 volt or 24 volt.

OP will need to clarify.
I used this transformer in the past:

in METB box. While box offers separated knockouts, wires are still in same chamber
 
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