light bulbs keep blowing

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shoemaker40

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the customer complained of light bulbs constantly blowing.( brand new home)i found multiple circuit neutrals tied together in a four gang switch box and three gang. i seperated the neutrals per circuit. Could this be the problem or am i missing something.
 
shoemaker40 said:
the customer complained of light bulbs constantly blowing.( brand new home)i found multiple circuit neutrals tied together in a four gang switch box and three gang. i seperated the neutrals per circuit. Could this be the problem or am i missing something.
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You did the right thing but I don't believe that was the problem. Try installing 130volt bulbs and make sure the wattage is correct.
 
shoemaker40 said:
the customer complained of light bulbs constantly blowing.( brand new home)i found multiple circuit neutrals tied together in a four gang switch box and three gang. i seperated the neutrals per circuit. Could this be the problem or am i missing something.
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We found the same thing in a doctor's clinic and a neighbors house. I Measured the voltages with two different digitals. Read 250V called POCO, they said they were within limits but raced off to a substation. Problem on that street never happened again.

BTW 130V bulbs are worth their weight in gold. Had two electricians in a plant that did nothing but change bulbs. Replaced them w/ 130V and we didn't have to relamp for 5 years.
 
You should also consider where these bulbs are located, especially if this new house has kids to go with it. I kept losing the stair lights leading to my workshop, but then I realized that my young son (back then) was sliding down the stairs. The vibration kills the bulbs pretty quick. The same can be true for large rooms where the floor and/or ceiling are generally unsupported. The more open space a house has, the more it will bounce.
 
now, say you have the original problem, with 1 recessed can in a series of six. the one bulb that keeps getting replaced is in the middle of the line. im down to thinking it must be the socket itself, all the joints have been remade, voltage is consistent
 
vinster888 said:
now, say you have the original problem, with 1 recessed can in a series of six. the one bulb that keeps getting replaced is in the middle of the line. im down to thinking it must be the socket itself, all the joints have been remade, voltage is consistent
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Probably. I have two of sixteen cans like that at home but haven't felt like fixing them. Also, consider insulation laying over a non-IC can.
 
If you believe vibration is the culprit, try heavy-duty or fan-light bulbs. They contain extra filament support wires.
 
LarryFine said:
If you believe vibration is the culprit, try heavy-duty or fan-light bulbs. They contain extra filament support wires.
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100% agree it is usually mechanical vibration that leads to the early demise of lights. Many times due to improper building construction such as a door cut in without a header /jack stud /king stud so every time the door is shut the light burns out.
 
quogueelectric said:
100% agree it is usually mechanical vibration that leads to the early demise of lights. Many times due to improper building construction such as a door cut in without a header /jack stud /king stud so every time the door is shut the light burns out.
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Sounds like a good place for a CFL
 
mikeames said:
How would this impact bulb life of only one?
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Lot of times its the lead coming from the socket to the j-box on the side of the can housing. 9 times out of 10 the two white solid wires are twisted nicely but the little white stranded wire from the can pulls right out of the wire nut.
 
Ohmy said:
Lot of times its the lead coming from the socket to the j-box on the side of the can housing. 9 times out of 10 the two white solid wires are twisted nicely but the little white stranded wire from the can pulls right out of the wire nut.
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That is not a floating neutral, it is a simple open circuit. A floating neutral requires both phases be present and share a common neutral which is disconnected from the source. It is a series connection of two (or more) 120 volt loads across a 240 volt supply, and the voltage of the floating neutral is dependent on the voltage division of the two loads.
 
Rick Christopherson said:
That is not a floating neutral, it is a simple open circuit. A floating neutral requires both phases be present and share a common neutral which is disconnected from the source. It is a series connection of two (or more) 120 volt loads across a 240 volt supply, and the voltage of the floating neutral is dependent on the voltage division of the two loads.
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True and if the lights in question are on a MWBC an open neutral could very well be the culprit, depending on where the open occurs in the branch circuits.
 
Rick Christopherson said:
That is not a floating neutral, it is a simple open circuit. A floating neutral requires both phases be present and share a common neutral which is disconnected from the source. It is a series connection of two (or more) 120 volt loads across a 240 volt supply, and the voltage of the floating neutral is dependent on the voltage division of the two loads.
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I agree with that. In that case, just get your lamps from Europe.
 
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Ohmy said:
9 times out of 10 the two white solid wires are twisted nicely but the little white stranded wire from the can pulls right out of the wire nut.
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A. It doesn't matter whether it's the white or the black that's loose. Current is the same everywhere in a simple circuit or loop.

2. The stranded wire wouldn't pull out if the installer was diligent enough to strip the wire long enough to go over the tips of the solids.

D. There's no reason undervoltage should shorten an incandescent filament's lifespan.
 
LarryFine said:
A. It doesn't matter whether it's the white or the black that's loose. Current is the same everywhere in a simple circuit or loop.

2. The stranded wire wouldn't pull out if the installer was diligent enough to strip the wire long enough to go over the tips of the solids.

D. There's no reason undervoltage should shorten an incandescent filament's lifespan.
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A, 2, & D? Home Alone? :grin:
 
LarryFine said:
A. It doesn't matter whether it's the white or the black that's loose. Current is the same everywhere in a simple circuit or loop.

2. The stranded wire wouldn't pull out if the installer was diligent enough to strip the wire long enough to go over the tips of the solids.

D. There's no reason undervoltage should shorten an incandescent filament's lifespan.
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I agree with that. Its just that in my experience, while anecdodal in nature, is those problems are generally on the white, and generally caused by poor installation from the installer (who is obviously not as cleaver as you), and generally causes the arcing in the wirenut, which I find reduces the life on incandescent lamps. Just trying to contribute :)
 
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