Bath Fan Replacement

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A/A Fuel GTX

A/A Fuel GTX

Senior Member
Location
WI & AZ
Occupation
Electrician
I have situation where a customer has bath fan that needs replacement. Problem is there is no access to physically get to the fan to remove it and since it was installed in the 1950's, I cant find the replacement parts I would need to retro fit the existing housing. Any ideas? FWIW, it's an Emerson fan with Pomona Ca. as an address.
 
dSilanskas said:
If you replace it with a new bath fan it should be bigger. Trace it out and cut the sheet rock and you should be able to get to the fan housing better
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Agreed but they don't always come out that easy and there is the question of the ducting possibly being in the wrong spot and the wiring compartment location may cause wiring issues. I don't like unknowns:confused:
 
A/A Fuel GTX said:
Agreed but they don't always come out that easy and there is the question of the ducting possibly being in the wrong spot and the wiring compartment location may cause wiring issues. I don't like unknowns:confused:
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If you don't like unknowns,,,you're in the wrong business. Open up the ceiling and get r done
 
Grainger

Grainger

Try Grainger - they have tech support [(847- 535-5400] - listen to the message, push the button for motors and let them know which motor you are trying to replace....they pretty much cross reference every motor known to man. I've never had a problem getting a replacement motor from them.

Good luck - hope you're not the 1st to not get a motor you need from them.

In case you are not aware - they are a national operation and have outlets all over the U.S. - you need an account [easy enough if you're in business] and they will ship the motor to you.
 
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Unknowns are part of service work. Your either cut out to deal with it or your not. Personally i hate service calls. Mostly because few companies send you out with a fully stocked truck and often your sent alone to do a 2 man job without proper equipment.
 
If you do not carry a grinder, with all the blades, you need to.

I use the grinder to cut off the nail heads and precision cut the opening as Dsilanskas said, get a bigger one.

And Mcclary, "Get r done."
 
If it was installed in the 50's, I'd be very suprised if it was ducted. If it is it's probilby only a few feet up or just out to the eve. As for the wire, if it's short, install a jbox and extend the wire. Cut it out and install a new one. All this can be done from inside the bathroom. Done it many times. If this is a pipe job, use some flex.
 
Cavie said:
As for the wire, if it's short, install a jbox and extend the wire.
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And render the J Box inaccessible? I guess my biggest concern is the existing ductwork. It's probably sheetmetal and that can't be very easy to work with given the tight working space. You guys make this install sound easy:cool:. I guess my apprehensiveness is based on never doing one of these without attic access.
 
Drywall repair men need work too. Warn customer that they might need one. Either they want it fixed or not. Maybe just leave the old and add a new one. Each job if differant so go there ready for battle.
 
Variable speed sawzall (I can be pretty articulate with one) - Fein tool with the expensive metal cutting blade. Or -tin snips and a nibbler to dis assemble the old one out in pieces. (Done that many times.)

Then a Panasonic bath fan - pretty good retrofit design.

Or you can call these guys - if they don't have parts for the fan you need - they don't exist.... I get a lot of old fans and heaters to repair here and there - they are the old parts guru's.
 
A/A Fuel GTX said:
And render the J Box inaccessible? I guess my biggest concern is the existing ductwork. It's probably sheetmetal and that can't be very easy to work with given the tight working space. You guys make this install sound easy:cool:. I guess my apprehensiveness is based on never doing one of these without attic access.
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If you end up installing it old work without having to open up the sheetrock larger than the fan, your screws will be accessible. Then you can write on the inside of the can with a sharpie that there's a J-box tucked away in the ceiling.
 
mcclary's electrical said:
If you don't like unknowns,,,you're in the wrong business. Open up the ceiling and get r done
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Exactly!!!



I've done many of these, be prepared for the worse!
Helpful info (Not going to list all the scenarios):
1. The ducting is most likely a 3". Buying a fan with the same size fit makes things easier.
2. If the ducting is too short, you can buy extensions, and extend the old.
3. I've only done two with no damage--if no access from above. Make sure you inform the customer in writing that there may be damage.
4. If the wire is too short, try removing the staple--you my have an additional 6-12 inches to work with. If you don't, then turn the fan--with the electrical knock-out facing the wire. Note: In some cases this will also turn your venting duct away--which could lead to other problems.
Moving the fan a few inches will help greatly in most cases, so I would plan on having drywall damage. If they have Plaster, then get ready for more challenges!
 
resistance said:
1. The ducting is most likely a 3". Buying a fan with the same size fit makes things easier.
Click to expand...
I always have a 3"-to-4" adapter when I do fan replacements, just in case. They'll work either way.

I also use only the metal duct tape. It sticks like crazy, and it's stronger than that grey cloth stuff.
 
I just retrofitted a nice squirll cage fan. It was easy.
It ' s nothing a pair of tin snips and sheet metal screws can't fix.

I have done it the other way too. Many times, it can be a pain. Esspecially if they only have one bathroom.
I walked out to get some thing out of my truck. When I got back a very large person was in this tiny bath room taking a dump!! WHEWWWPOOOOSTINKY!!!!!!
This was a rental, I was so mad.
Let's just say "I paid my dues."
 
LarryFine said:
I always have a 3"-to-4" adapter when I do fan replacements, just in case. They'll work either way.

I also use only the metal duct tape. It sticks like crazy, and it's stronger than that grey cloth stuff.
Click to expand...

Not to mention it's a requirement. You can't use duct tape on duct. Isn't that silly?? It's got to be the metal tape for mechanical ducting.
 
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